The Guest House, my home in Noa Noa Island

I’ve always wondered how it’s like to live in a small island. Of course I imagined there would be palm trees, a nice beach, hammocks, refreshing drinks, native huts and endless view of the ocean. But when I took a project for one of the private islands in Taytay Palawan named Noa Noa Island, I never expected to be staying about 11-days in this luxurious island where I was the only guest while working on a project. It was one of my memorable escapes to a not-so-known island surrounded by one of the most astounding marine sanctuary I’ve ever swam on.

On the eastern side of the island

Whisked to the Island

It was the start of my extended sojourn in Northern Palawan where instead of bringing a backpack, I brought my whole life in a huge suitcase not knowing when I’ll be back home. From an early flight from Manila to Puerto Princesa, I then rode a Roro Bus bound for El Nido and after more than five-hour found myself in Taytay Palawan. The last time I was here, was 2005 when I went on assignment to feature Club Noah Resort before (now known as Apulit Island for El Nido Resorts). Despite the fatigue from flying then the bus ride, I was wide-eyed trying to recall what I remembered of the place when I took a tricycle to Casa Rosa Lodging. I met the owners Andy and Chele, a kind couple who owns the lodging and the island. After a brief snack, we found ourselves on an outrigger boat to Noa Noa Island that same afternoon.

I enjoy watching the sunset from my veranda

The Island Life

Eleven days may be too long for some people to stay on an island where life is almost incognito from a highly connected world. No internet, no radio nor cable TV. But I found the quiet, a welcome change, with only the sound of the waves, the wind, the birds and the insects to keep me company. As soon as I got there I set up my workspace at my huge room at the Guest House with a nice veranda fronting the beach. My usual day would go like this – wake up for breakfast along with the workers of the island (from the cooks, gardeners, carpenters and guard) or if the Andy was there I’d be up at the main house with the couple. Continue my work in the morning, have lunch with the island people, spend a time after lunch by the Beach Bar and read (as it gets too hot in the room in the afternoon), back to work again and if I want to go out for a stretch I would walk around the island. Sometimes the adorable island pet, Olly, a Palawan Otter, would follow me around. In the evening we would go about what we accomplished for the day and continue working with the materials with the owner. At times if I’m feeling productive I would wake up wee hours in the morning for the sunrise or stay up late to capture the star-studded sky.

The Beach Bar, my favorite reading spot after lunch

A Labor of Love

During breakfast or dinner I would start discussions with the owner about the island, how he developed it in a span of 8 years. What he did here on his own is short of impressive. For water source he managed to install a 5km pipe on the seabed to the nearby stream on a mainland. The island electricity source is powered by 10kva Solar Energy with huge panels and power storage. He also managed to landscape the island adding pathways so people can safely go around the island without damaging the natural forest cover (but be careful as some grass snakes and monitor lizards still linger around). Sometimes the pathways would lead to hanging bridges, scenic lookout points and even hidden coves where you can skinny dip to your delight without anyone watching.

Catching the morning sun by the helipad

A Private Island

The owner treasures privacy. I’m not sure at this time but he did plan to have this island rented for groups. A true private island where the only guests are the group renting the island. After almost a week of staying there, the tranquility of island living has rubbed over me. I missed freely snorkeling and seeing a kaleidoscope world of marine life just a few meters from the shore, I missed my chair at the beach hut where I read after lunch, I missed the sunset view from my room veranda or watching a kingfisher hunt in the morning, I also miss the fresh mango pie for dessert the house cook usually makes. I’m not sure when I’ll be back but I’m quite thankful for experiencing all that.

One of the scenic spots overlooking the Apulit Island in Taytay

An unexpected companion, Olly, a Palawan otter

I enjoy spending the night by the beach watching the star-studded sky

A beautiful kingfisher in the hunt just beside my veranda

My room at the Guest House

An octopus sculpture made from a tree roots

Inviting waters surrounding the island is a marine sanctuary

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Coron Twilight over the Islands

It seems I’ve been going back to a lot of places lately. At least 6 years after, and more air traffic lately in NAIA (our flight was delayed for more than an hour) I found myself bound for Francisco Reyes Airport in Busuanga. A new airport, wide paved road (and watch our for passing cattle) and a more bustling little Coron Town were some of the notable changes. We checked in at Coron Eco Lodge found at the quiet side of Calle Real (check my review here). With our time cut short because of the flight delay, we chose to forego the regular “City Tour” and head directly Mt Tapyas for the sunset I was looking forward to shoot again.

Climbing the familiar 700+ steps up Mt Tapyas

Climb to Mt Tapyas

It took 718 steps for at least 25 minutes with huffing and puffing in between before we reached the 210-meter high mountain summit. It was already way past 5pm when we started our assault so we were racing to the top to catch the setting sun. I just thought of it as an additional cardio exercise for the day. Aside from the regular sightseeing folks, there were people who were doing this as their cardio routine running up and down the stairs. Despite some people’s stair-climbing effort, everyone were all smiles and were excited with the view from the top. Not much has changed there. We have some tower and the cross and the viewpoint with some concrete benches. The familiar gazebos who played as foreground to my captures before remains for people to enjoy their sunset viewing.

Standing on a different hill this time for another take

Getting a New Angle

It’s my second time here in the summit and I didn’t want to repeat my composition before. The light is different this time around and there was a portion of kaingin (swidden or slash and burn farming) on a portion of the hill view. Nevertheless the view was fantastic as ever. The rugged terrain of the gigantic Coron Island on the left and the other Calamianes Island on the right amidst ray of purple twilight skies. Again the perennial gazebos became foreground to my composition. Funny as the twilight came, I was swarmed by a number of gamu-gamo (moths) on another side of the summit hill even crawling under my shirt, so imagine me running like crazy out of the hill with my tripod raised to the air. The main viewdeck had none of those creepy-crawling flying creatures and so I stayed there by the benches. I was fascinated with the cross and played around with it until the stars showed itself on a haze-free sky.

It took us half an hour to climb the mountain but it took almost a couple of hours to capture the landscapes from the summit. Yes travel photographers is a different breed of travelers. Most people don’t understand us and send people scratching their heads on what we were doing (like waking up so early or even staying up late at night). We find joy in capturing moments, fleeting as they are. On our way down the deserted steps another important thing reminded us, our grumbling stomachs saying it’s time for dinner. Oh I’m glad to be back in Coron.

The cross and the stars

Essential Info

Mt Tapyas jump-off is just behind the basketball court way up north San Agustin Street before Daven’s Place. There are no entrance fees.

Many thanks to Coron Eco Lodge for accommodating us during our stay in Coron Town.

The pathway to the gazebo

View of the people climbing the steps

Calamianes islands gradients

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Coron Island’s Kayangan Lake

It’s been photographed many times. There’s little room for composition in the area. It’s been posted in many billboards and printed on magazines a gazillion times already. So why do I want to go back to Kayangan Lake in Coron Island? Because photos cannot capture what it’s feels like being there. To be surrounded by stunning karts formations towering over the clear emerald lake of Kayangan Lake. It literally feels like stepping inside a scenic wallpapers that’s too good to be a real place.

Entering the bay

The Coron Island Tour

We took the Coron Island Tour package from Coron EcoLodge. If you’re new to Coron and has only 2 nights to spare it’s a good tour to take as it visits the key sites in Coron like the Kayangan Lake, CYC Beach,Twin Peaks Reef, Atuayan Beach and the Coral Garden. Our day started not too early as we were at the pier by 9am. We found out that the other group that were supposed to be with our boat won’t be able to come. Instead of whisking us to another group, our tour pushed through with the boat all to ourselves.

Enjoying Kayangan Lake

Kayangan Lake Revisited

I will never get tired of seeing turquoise waters and towering limestones like this even if I have stayed for a while in El Nido. Coron Island is massive and rugged even on the corners, it seems like each nook and cranny has something to offer. Our first stop was Kayangan Lake and our guide made sure we arrive early. There were already some boats parked there but big enough room to move our boat around. We didn’t have to pay for the fees as it is included already in the packaged tour fee.

We did the usual climb to the viewing deck on the bay entrance to Kayangan Lake. It’s as wonderful as before but this time fire trees were in bloom. Soon people started arriving and actually waiting in line to have their posterity photos by the rock. We moved on.

Nothing much has changed on the transparent clear waters of Kayangan Lake. The air is still pleasantly fresh, the greens soothing to the eyes and the waters is still refreshing to swim at. I guess the only difference now is that there are more people here now.

The boat docking area

Legend of the Sacred Cabugao Lake

kayangan Lake is only a diminutive part of Coron Island. There’s a larger lake in the middle of the island called Cabugao Lake, but as most part of the island, it is off-limits to tourist as it’s an ancestral domain of the Tagbanuas, the indigenous people of Calamianes Island. Our guide told us that the Tagbanuas are protecting a sacred tree living and flourishing beneath Cabugao Lake. They say it stills bear fruit and has some healing properties. I don’t know if that is true but haven’t seen any photos of Cabugao Lake yet despite its size.

On our way out there were more boats docked at the bay. Can’t imagine there’s sea traffic now in Coron with all these tourist boats coming and going. It’s a good thing tourism has considerably boosted here and I’m glad that after more than 5 years, nothing much has changed. Kayangan Lake still looks enchanting as ever.

Beautiful karst as we approach the island

Fire trees in bloom and the boat docking station

The familiar scener at kayangan Lake Coron

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The crystal clear waters of Banol Beach

Coron Palawan can speak for itself in terms of its natural beauty. I’ve seen the wonders of Halong Bay, while I admired its thousands of karst wonder, it can’t really compare to how clear and spectacular our Palawan turquoise waters is. The best way to see the islands which is through day tours offered in town. Like El Nido, Coron have also grouped the sites to several island tours. We’re doing the Coron Island Hopping tour (offered by Coron EcoLodge) and has just visited Kayangan Lake. The only need in these tours is a comfortable swimwear (expect to be wet throughout), an open sense of wonder and fun.

Approaching Banol Beach for lunch

The Twin Peaks Reef

Just fronting the Kayangan Lake boat port are two dwarf karst islets and a floating hut which serves as the anchor for our boat and the jump-off to the reef exploration down under. They call this place the Twin Peaks Reef. I decided not to set-up my underwater camera and just look what’s under first. There were some good set of corals but I had to go further to see more fishes like a huge anemone fish, bigger than most I have seen.

Beach and mangroves at CYC beach

Banol Lunch Stop

The Coron Island Hopping tours usually come with meals. For lunch we stopped at Banol Beach (or Banul). There is a noticeable increase in the number of tourist as the beach area and huts were already occupied when we got there. Nevertheless there are still stilted dining cottages above the water available and just having the crystal clear sea view makes the grilled fish, grilled pork, veggies and fruits all the more tasty. Having a few minutes downtime just to lie down a bit or take a splash is a plus.

A kid under the mangrove shade at CYC Beach

CYC Beach

A beautiful small islet dotted with mangroves. It’s a fun island to be in as its perfect for picnics and camping is allowed. The sand is soft and the beach ideal for swimming. It’s so family friendly as I noticed a lot of them, even with toddlers enjoying place. We wanted to walk around the island but the tide was already high so we moved on after a while. Next time I’ll definitely try to stay here overnight.

Impressive coral reefs in Balinsasayaw Reef

Balinsasayaw Reef

I had to take our guide’s word who seemed passionate about the diving and snorkeling. He told me that Balinsasayaw Reef is one of his favorite snorkeling sites in Coron. As the 2nd to the last stop I set up my underwater gear and got into the water. The water is deeper and the corals around at least 10 feet but they are definitely in great condition and sprawling wonderfully on this side of the ocean. The fish isn’t as teeming as I would expect though but the common tropical fishes are there and I did enjoy swimming around admiring the corals. I freaked out when our guide picked-up a sea urchin. I didn’t know there’s a particular way to handle them without being stung. Snack was also served at the floating station of the reef.

The Twin Lagoon bridge and ladders connecting the two lagoons (left) and swimming on the inner lagoon (right)

Twin Lagoons

Our last stop was the Twin Lagoons. There’s already a considerable crowd of boats there so we had to swim our way to the entrance. If you are comfortable in water, you can submerge and swim through the hole to get to the other lagoon. If not, go up by the stairs. I enjoyed this last stop. It’s relaxing and the environment feels so tranquil. What I did was prop a life-vest on my back and lay there on the water, afloat, just looking at the sky at the karst peaks. A soothing way to cap our Coron Island Hopping tour.

Postscript

I really have to commend the local government here in Coron on how they preserve the reefs here. I noticed that no boat dropped anchor, most of the time they would attach themselves to a floating station or a buoy. This was one of the problems I noticed in El Nido and I hope they follow Coron’s example.

Many thanks to Coron EcoLodge (check my review here) for taking care of this tour. For their other package tours check out their website at www.coronecolodge.com.

The author snorkeling at Balinsasayaw Reef

A kid about to pass through the underwater passage at the Twin Lagoons

Beautiful mangroves at CYC Beach

One of the dining cottages at Banol

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La Immaculada Concepcion Church under a star studded night

There are two sides in every story, and for an island like Culion, that held the stigma of the long-gone leprosy, there’s the view from the people who lived in the island and those who look upon it from the outside like me. I have this lingering fascination and curiosity with Culion Island that beheld me ever since I’ve heard about it. I wanted delve deeper and see for myself, hear for myself the stories of struggles, perseverance, hope and healing. I know there’s a lot more to Culion Island than what people perceive of it, so I made sure when I returned to Coron, I made a trip to this island used to be known as the “Island of the living dead” and “Island of no return”.

The site of the Agila (eagle) the symbol of the Philippine Health Services

The Eagle Sighted

Almost a couple of hours boat ride from Coron Town, we caught sight of an Eagle just above a hill near a few towers. Upon further reading of literature about Culion Island (in reference to an article by Art Punzalan*), the sign of the eagle on the hill is the seal of the Philippine Health Service. It was built in 1926 to commemorate the colony’s 20 years anniversary. At that time, people outside the island, proceeds with caution when they see the Eagle Seal as it means they are entering a dreaded leprosy zone. But for the people who built the seal and carried the coral stones up the side of the mountain, it’s a symbol of hope and pride. The site is now popularly known as the “Agila“ a tagalog word for Eagle.

Culion Town at dusk

Nightfall over Culion Town

We settled in our lodging at Hotel Maya, found at the back of La Immaculada Concepcion Church. It’s a beautiful old hotel mostly used for retreats. I just love the view of the open sea at their patio. Wanting to see more of the town, we decided to visit the Agila. A few people volunteered directions and it plain and simple, follow the road down, past the Rizal Plaza is a White House, go on a pathway on its side. It was a pleasant stroll as we go into this small coastal town with only a few houses lined up, some stilt houses and friendly people we passed by. I am always charmed by places that seems far off the radar like this, small road, low-rise house and genuine smiles from people.

We again raced for the light on the 330-steps stair trail usually plied by devotees for their Holy Week Pilgrimage. Albeit shorter than our 700+ steps climb at Mt Tapyas in Coron, I found myself short of breath when we reached the site of the Eagle and the town slowly wrapped under the shadow of the hill. I looked at the stones, how huge they were and wondered how long did it take for those people who built this site for them to gather and build the symbol.

A Christ the Redeemer stands atop the Eagle symbol overlooking the town. From up there I could see the huge jagged Coron Island and the nearby islands and the number of boats that seems to go in different directions as the night falls, probably most of them on their way home. By twilight, the facade of La Immaculada Concepcion Church lights up and a few houses and establishments with generator. There is limited electricity on the island as they were waiting for the technicians who will work on the new generators that came from Coron.

The Christ the Redeemer atop the Agila hill

A Starry Starry Night

As the night got deeper, the stars revealed themselves and it was plentiful, a sight I have sorely whenever I’m in Manila. We descended the hill rather late. There was electricity at Hotel Maya but the generator for the aircon would open by midnight. We decided to get some cool air but found the milky way revealing itself on the horizon. With almost pitch-black darkness sans electricity, we let the ambient light paint the landscape, the sky and the structures. It was a wonderful night to take photos and delight on a starry starry night.

View of the nearby islands of Culion

Essential Info

There is only one public ferry to Culion Island trip per day. There are two boats that alternate every other day, the Barbara and Olympia, plies the Coron-Culion Island route and leaves Coron Port at 1-1:30pm. The next day, the Culion-Coron boat leaves at 7:30-8am. The ride takes about two hours. There is a 32-passenger capacity each trip so it’s best to visit early in the morning and sign up to reserve your slot. Boat fare at this time of writing is Php 180/pax payable on board and there’s a Php 20 terminal fee at the pier.

Day Tours to Culion Island are also offered by several travel agencies in town. Usually at Php 1,150/pax for a group minimum of 5 pax.

*Reference to Art Punzalan’s Colonial Leprosy Archives

Christ the Redeemer overlooking the town

The Culion lighthouse at the back of the church and milky way in view

The author gazing at the stars in Culion Island

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Bust of an actual leper in Culion found Culion Leprosy Museum

“I knew that man during my younger years. When I see that bust, I can still imagine him speaking to me” said Pastor Hermie, our guide for that day as we ventured to the farther south regions of Culion Island on a motorbike. He was referring to the grotesque bust figure greeting visitors of the Culion Leprosy Museum and Archive after a flight of stairs to the 2nd floor. Just the thought that the figure was an actual leper sent a chill on my spine as I imagine his mummified figure. Stories such as this is common in Culion Island, whose present inhabitants are one way or another are 2nd or 3rd generation descendants of the thousands of leprosy patients who lived on the island. Its hard not to talk about the leprosy stigma that has befallen Culion when visiting the island and a good starting point to learn more about it is a visit to the Culion Leprosy Museum and Archive within the General Hospital compound.

Display of a patient’s sick bed

The Museum

We had to wait for caretaker Mauricio to open the museum for us. With rationed electricity and limited visitors, they only open the Museum when needed. There’s a Php 50 entrance fee payable at the General Hospital cashier. The lights were open, I could hear the cooling system kicking in and the displays took a life on its own. I’m impressed on how the museum was curated. The lighting was warm and spotlight on the items leads my eye where it should be. We learned the walls were recently lending to its new feel. Displays are properly labeled and once in a while, Mauricio would add in some trivia. I went through the sequence and let the display speak about their history.

Photos of the leper colony

Life in the Culion Leper Colony

We can say history started in Culion Island on May 27, 1906 when the first batch of 370 patients came from Cebu in accordance with the “Segregation Law on Leprosy”. The original inhabitants left their homes to live on nearby islands, selling their houses and lands. But things didn’t go simple for the leprosy-inflicted, instead of calling them simple patients they were called “inmates” like criminals in prison. The people inside the leper colony tried to continue with their regular life on the island while being treated. Like an independent nation Culion Island even had their own currency they use for trade and work. People still fall in love but they were not encouraged to get married and as their children may also be inflicted with leprosy. That didn’t stop them from tying the knot though and having babies. Photos and clips of their lives inside the colony can be seen on the ground floor as well as the currencies they have used. Displays of how patients were treated, the tools and photographic transformations of some of the patients after being treated.

A before and after treatment of Chaulmoogra

Healing Leprosy

For the period of every 3 months, new batches of leprosy patients would come in. By 1910 about 5,303 patients were brought in Culion, then regarded as the world’s largest leper colony, 3,154 of those died from leprosy complications, 33 who were officially cured were “paroled” and 114 were absconded. The rise of fatality rate was due to inadequate equipment and shortage of personnel. It was only in 1911 when more help came from different sectors. Use of Chaulmoogra (an herbal oil from the said tree) was used to treat leprosy and there were segregation done on patients depending on the degree, from the mild to the severe.

In 1920, interest on finding better treatment for leprosy became strong, more funding came in. At that, time Culion became the leading institution in the world for leprosy research and experimental treatment, due to the large number of patients and willing volunteers to undergo experimental procedures. This even attracted prominent leprologist around the world to the island. The 2nd floor of the museum hold the tools and paraphernalia researchers used to find ways to treat leprosy. Eventually by 1930s, leprosaria centers in 8 strategic regions in the country were established for treating “mild” cases of leprosy reducing the number of incoming patients to the island. By 1952, people were now allowed by law to be treated at home under certain conditions which further reduced the population of people in Culion eventually making the sanitarium function as a medical facility later on.

One of the few tools used to treat leprosy

A Link to the Past

The visit to the Culion Leprosy Museum and Archive was an enriching experience that would shed light to what really transpired on this island. The museum not only holds tangible records and archive of the island’s past but is a link to the collective memory of the people. As we leave the museum the caretaker Mauricio revealed his full name by pointing to the plaque at the museum, Marucio Leal. He was the son of a former patient who worked on the hospital and the museum for decades. With understanding of the island’s past, the feeling of dread was replaced by hope and optimism.

*Reference notes from Art Punzalan’s article “All the Things We Cannot Articulate: Colonial Leprosy Archives and Community Commemoration” and the article on “History of Culion Sanitarium and General Hospital”

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Getting walled-in at the Cabulihan mangroves

I was looking at the map and was quite surprised there are many islands and islets surrounding the huge main island of Culion. Pastor Hermie, our guide, pointed to the map and showed our path going westward then south to this snaking river opening up to the a large bay with islets which then exits to the sea. We were going to Cabulihan Mangroves instead of the original plan to Balanga Falls and Mangroves which he honestly says is now in a really bad state. We followed his recommendation to discover the southwest side of the island.

Along the winding Cabulihan River

Across the Island

The afternoon rain fell but we pushed through with our trip. Pastor Hermie took us on his motorbike and we navigated the rocky dirt road traversing east to west of the island. We saw some small villages, farms and also an air strip used by private air crafts landing on the island. Further down south we reached the mouth of the Cabulihan River. We met a family there who were transporting their Nipa Hut roofings which they sell to the mainland. We asked if we could hire their boat to take us through the Mangroves and to the bay and the, Mother, Father and son kindly obliged.

Exiting the river for the bay

Palawan, a Mangrove Country

There are many mangrove forest found throughout the country but Palawan is considered as the Mangrove Country. Out of the 1.485 Million Hectares land area of the province about 58,400 hectares is mangrove covered, the highest concentration in the country. Presidential Proclamation 2152 declared the entire province of Palawan as a Mangrove Swamp Forest Reserve.

There is a community living at the islet bay

Towering Mangroves

Our boat followed through the winding river, the ride was quiet with only our voices, our boat motor and a few birds the only sound filling the air. As we got deeper, we saw really tall mangroves stretching up probably 20-30feet high and they line the river one after another. It felt like we were between two high walls. We exchanged ideas how this place would have been great for kayaking. Pastor Hermie told us that early morning and late afternoon would be the best time to go here with many birds in the area.

A crab farmer on his dug out canoe

The Bay

We emerged from the river to a large bay with islets and a gateway to the Sulu Sea. There is a community living on the islets of this bay known for its healthy supply of crabs. We visited one of the owners of the crab farm there and he demonstrated how he manage his farm and and capturing them from his dugout canoe.

We sailed back from where we came from, it was an interesting destination to see. Pastor Hermie, who is also the manages the island’s tourism was open to our ideas on this place. I see potential here and hope to see more of it in the future.

The healthy Cabulihan Mangroves of Culion Island

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Mountain Mirage the misty landscape of Kiltepan Sagada

The perfect journey is never finished, the goal is always just across the next river, round the shoulder of the next mountain. There is always one more track to follow, one more mirage to explore.

“Mountains Mirage” Photo Print available at SmugMug WHC Prints. Check here.

EXIF Info

• Aperture: ƒ/5.6
• Camera: E-M5
• Taken: 1 November, 2012
• Copyright: Ferdz Decena
• ISO: 200
• Shutter speed: 1/640s

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Serene twilight at Lele Beach Culion Island

Curious eyes stare as we step down the motorcycle. Kids who were playing around suddenly stopped and proceeded in caution to look who came. Fishermen by the shore securing their boat gave a quick glance. It seems the people here at Lele Beach in Culion Island don’t to see many visitors donning cameras and tripods that often. Thanks to our guide Hermie, there was a familiar face they can get comfortable with. He informed the small community that we’ll be hanging around their beach for the sunset.

The rocky side of the beach

On the Western Side

It’s not often visitors of Culion venture to the southwestern side of the island. After seeing the map at the lobby of Hotel Maya, we knew the town was just a tip of the iceberg. Hermie whetted our appetite for exploration by describing some of the natural wonders found in the area not often visited by people. With our limited time, we can only go to a few. The Cabulihan Mangroves was one of them and as we head back up, we veered left to the small Baranggay Lele with a small stretch of brown and almost desolate Lele Beach with the occasional kids, locals and dogs going around. Along the thick growth of coconut trees, don’t be surprised to see squirrels scuttering from tree to tree.

Almost desolate beach

Sundown at Lele Beach

There were the usual curiosities from the locals. Some asking if we were part of a crew from a TV station or just plain curious as to what I’m getting in my camera. The kids got comfortable, too comfortable that they started dancing and doing summersaults in front of the camera. Much to my delight, I wasn’t doing a video to capture their comic moments. Amusing little place but big on character and amazing hues from the afternoon light. The beach may not be the best around but the scenery was another captivating moment as the sky exploded with pink hues. Another fascinating place, it feels good sometimes to be a stranger in a place. To not feel like a tourist but a curious explorer who stumbled upon someone’s abode unexpectedly and interrupting their lives even for a brief moment.

Placid and reflective waters

Sunsetting at Lele

A place to dry the fish

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Facade of La Immaculada Concepcion Church

It may probably the first thing you’ll see upon approaching Culion Island. The red-colored walls of La Immaculada Concepcion Church is eye-catching from afar. It stands on a hill overlooking the sea and part of the town. It’s an even beautiful church up close and right beside it is Hotel Maya and a light house with war cannons pointing to the open sea. Since its nearby where we are staying, it’s easy to just visit this neighbor of a church and admire its wonderful details.

The church is easily seen by approaching vessels from the sea

A Former Fortress

Written on the church grounds:

“The walls of the church were taken from the old fortress built in 1740. Its base and surrounding walls are hewn from live corals, although concrete has been poured in some areas. In 1933, the church underwent reconstruction under the supervision of Fr. Hugh McNulty. SJ. In 1978, Ben Amores, a patient, painted the ceiling with the design of Fr. Javier Olazabal. SJ. In 2003, Fr. Gabriel Gonzales. SJ. initiated the restoration and renovation of the Church in order to restore their work and preserve its structural integrity through the generous support of Fundation Anesvad. ~ Sponsored by the Society of Jesus”

Main entrance and church interior

Into the Details

We had to wait before an afternoon mass has ended to inspect the church as no one is around to go around the area especially on the light house. La Immaculada Concepcion Church a really charming. A series of stairs leading to the church, a few plants jutting out of the wall and especially its red-colored bricks on the side walls. Inside the ceiling looks newly painted. Then there’s these really nice angel faces on the designs. The original paint under it was painted by a handicapped leper patient. He has no hands so people has to tie the brushes to his arms and lift him up near the ceiling. Outside there’s a sculpture of a huge hand gently holding a baby on its palm. It symbolizes their stand against abortion. We sat down by the stairs facing the town where it’s nice and breezy. We could see the Eagle from that point and the street below. It’s one of those spots I could stay for a while and watch the world go by.

Ceiling paint looks new

I like those angel design elements under the windows

Sculpture about the right to life of the unborn

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Sunrise stroll in Culion Town

I had no intention to wake up early. But hearing the aircon shut down after its rationed 5-6 hour run at night nudged me out of my sleep. I couldn’t get back the zzzs, so I looked out the window to see what’s outside and saw the sun in a good mood, painting the clouds with warm colors. I grabbed my camera and went to the patio of Hotel Maya to see the day unfolding in this little town of Culion.

At the patio of Hotel maya

Hotel Maya

A curious two-story lodging beside La Immaculada Concepcion Church is filled with history as well. The ground floor used to be a dormitory for destitute and orphaned girls afflicted with leprosy run by the Sisters of Saint Paul de Chartres and Department of Health which they call then the Hijas de Maria Dormitory. The second floor is a Loyola College School. These days the place operates as Hotel Maya, formerly called Ateneo Loyola Hostel – Hotel for the Study of Ecotourism and Livelihood. No wonder most of the staff are young as they are trainees, tourism students for the Loyola Collage of Culion.

Don’t be put off by the young staff, they may be gaining experience but they are friendly and enthusiastic. The place is well-kept. Water may be a problem sometimes but they’ll find a way. I like the breezy dining area. Food is very good too. There’s solar-powered light and socket in each room. Not to mention the scenic patio with an access to a stairwell going down the main street which I took.

Stilt houses at Culion Town

Sleepy Town

Time moves slow and people here savor their time. I already see folks up early, walking by the roadside to wherever their headed. I did notice a couple of rubber shoes doing their walks by the breakwater. Such a touching site of people growing old together, in a place so quaint and close to nature. The waters by the stilt houses grew astir by the movement of people waking up to another day. Culion Town is unconventionally attractive, perhaps to people seeking refuge from the chaos of city life. A place to retreat for a time. Or better yet, retire.

Hotel Maya
Contact 0921 3004004

The widely visible signage of Hotel Maya

Door leading to the patio and people up early walking by the roadside

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Spotless. The pure shores of Mahabang Buhangin Beach

With the Philippine’s thousands of islands, there’s no surprise if there’s still a few that’s relatively untouched by development. One which has been making a buzz among backpackers and adventure travelers these recent years is the Mahabang Buhangin Beach (Long Sand Beach) in Calaguas Group of Islands in Camarines Norte. It has even become one of the top contenders for the Philippine Gems, a campaign spearheaded by Isla Lipana & Co. (PwC Ph) to recognize the emerging destinations in the country. Despite the erratic weather, I gladly took the invitation by folks at Fleishman Hillard and PwC for an ocular trip to see why this Calaguas Islands is making waves at their campaign.

The Vinzons river where locals usually ply

Jump-Off at Vinzons Camarines Norte

We were a small group of three, which is great so we can easily move around. From DLTB Bus Station in Edsa, we rode the 8-hour Daet bound bus, took breakfast, then jumped in a jeep for a short ride to Vinzons. Vast agricultural land flanked our views inside the jeep until we reach their small town center where the tallest structure seems to reach only 3-story. Calaguas Group of Islands is under the municipality of Vinzons in Camarines Norte (except for Maculabo Islands which is part of Paracale, the other jumpoff point). It may be a bit longer to get to the islands from here but we have an appointment with local tourism office. Vinzons is a small municipality which thrives on rice agriculture. They have just began realizing the potential of tourism in their area. They even have no lodgings in their town yet.

Other beautiful islands in Calaguas

A Splashy Ride

It seems people are getting used to visitors here. People, from the lady at the store or our tricycle driver, would suggest boatmen that can take us to Calaguas Islands. Since there are no standard boat rates yet, we had to haggle for a good price. We got a good deal on a boat that would stay with us overnight in the island. From the fishport, we rode our way to a lovely mangrove-fringed river. Stopping by at Baranggay Sula just by river mouth to the sea for a short boat chore. Baranggay Sula doesn’t have potable water so they had to get containers filled from the town.

The open waters between the mainland and the island is rough. Expect to get wet and splashed throughout. It’s a good idea my companions brought big garbage bags to secure our items. More than half of the 2.5 hours travel time is through this Pacific Waters. It gets really interesting as we approach the islands. We thought we already reached our destination when we saw Guintinua Island which teased us with its own beautiful stretch of white sand beach. Our boatman signaled its still at the back. We marveled at the hills, ridges and the beaches we passed by. They were so green and fertile it could pass as a golf course.

Overlooking Mahabang Buhangin Beach

Mahabang Buhangin Pure Shores

We reached Mahabang Buhangin, the popular beach in Tinaga Island, the poster boy of Calaguas Islands. It was mid-day, the sun was out and the beach sand showed its all blinding white glory. It was wide, long, surrounded by sloping hills, an all too-friendly dogs welcome and there was almost nobody around except for a family on one side of the beach. Mahabang Buhangin stretches 2.5 to 3km and the sand quality is excellent, white and powdery, perfect against the clear turquoise waters. Suddenly all that long travel seems nothing as we were rewarded by this pristine beach. I can see why people gave rave reviews as it is really defines what a “beautiful tropical beach” is like.

We came in an off-peak season, and on a Sunday that’s why there weren’t many people around. We searched for our contact, Bert’s Resort up north of the stretch and secured our cottages from the enthusiastic old man who likes to share stories and jokes. The weather went awry so we decided to just enjoy the afternoon swimming. Mahabang Buhangin sand is really wonderful, the beach slopes gradually and there are no rocks in the area. The waves are gentle and there are no known undertows as well so it is really ideal for swimming.

There was no sunset that day, so I just waited for the clouds to part that evening and fortunately it did. The stars showed themselves in this moonless night. The galaxy stretched through the sky.

At Baranggay Mangcawayan, the eastern shores of Tinaga Island

Exploring Beyond the Beach

South of Mahabang Buhangin beach, there’s a 15-20 minute trail leading to Baranggay Mangcawayan. A fishing village of about 500 people. Their beach is not really attractive but we heard if you are into snorkeling, they have beautiful corals in this side of Tinaga Island. We found fresh cuttle fish catch on this village which our boatman cooked ala “Inadobo sa Gata“, it’s one of the best squid dish I had from the coconut rich soup with a spicy kick and the really tender squid meat. There are general merchandise stores here as well for basic supplies or cold drinks.

There are hiking potentials in the area. North of the beach there’s an easy hike overlooking the beach. On the other side there’s a much steeper trail. We explored this one hoping to find a clearing by following the Water Buffalo’s trail. It led to a low lying forest. I wouldn’t recommend people exploring the area by themselves as I encountered three grass snakes in one hike. The one inside the forest was about 3-feet long. I made sure I have a stick to rustle the path ahead of me and trample the ground to make sounds. The island is an ideal place for birding too. I’ve seen several colorful birds I don’t normally see.

Waling Waling Eco Village have already set up shop in the beach to cater for mid-market beach combers

A Touch of Development

It won’t be long before large chain resorts start to notice Mahabang Buhangin Beach. In fact, Waling Waling, the same resort from Boracay already have their Eco Village setup in the area. It will be challenging though how to market this to middle to upper class markets. I guess distance would benefit the island to hamper any mis-developments. With our talk to Mayor of Vinzons, Agnes Ang and Tourism Officer Nilo, they are studying how to develop the island very carefully. So far I like the island and the beach. I’m sure beach-lovers would crowd this place come summertime. I would surely come back here in better weather.

Our dinner of Squid Inadobo sa gata and Night Sky

Essential Info

Mahabang Buhangin Beach is found west of Tinaga Island, which is part of the Calaguas Group of Islands under the municipality of Vinzons, Camarines Norte.

Ways to go to Calaguas Islands

• From Manila the easiest and budget-friendly way is to take a 7-8 hour bus ride to Camarines Norte. There are two jump-off points, Vinzons and Paracale.
• Vinzons offers more flexibility as there are more options for buses going to Daet and they are mostly airconditioned. DLTB Bus would be a good option (Php 500). From Daet take a 20 minute jeepney ride to Vinzons (Php 16) to the fish port. At Vinzons you can buy necessary supplies like water and food to take at the islands. Haggle for boats to take you to the island which usually cost about Php 2500-3000 or more depending on how big the boat or conditions. Most boats have life vest here.
• Paracale is much faster in terms of time as it only takes less than 2 hours to Calaguas Islands. Superlines have direct buses to Paracale but is not airconditioned. One can take Daet bound buses and get off at Baranggay Talobatib in Labo then ride an hour long bus to Paracale. Boats can be hired here much cheaper from Php 2000 up. There are also regular passenger boats here to Calaguas Islands that leaves at 10am. Fare is Php 100 one way to the Tinaga Island. The same boat leaves the island daily as well.
• If you wish to fly, take a flight to Naga then take a 2-hour Van to Daet. Follow instructions to Vinzons above.

Be Prepared

• Currently there are no accommodations at Mahabang Buhangin Beach aside from beach cottages and tents. It’s best to bring your own drinking water. Food is optional as this can be arranged in the island with fresh catch but still for contingency best to bring along some.
• Bring torch/ flashlights.
• Waterproof your things for the boat rides.
• Bring insect repellant.
• There are now toilets in the area and water pumps to freshen up.
• In Vinzons there’s a store in front of the Fishport where people can use the restroom and shower for Php 20.

If you think Calaguas Island’s Mahabang Buhangin Beach deserves to win the Philippine Gems, you can cast your vote here. Deadline for voting is at September 25, 2013.

View of North Tinaga Island from the ridge

A family heads to the village

Our boat hire from Vinzons

Beautiful night in Calaguas

The post Mahabang Buhangin Beach at Calaguas Islands: Almost Unadulterated appeared first on Ironwulf.net: En Route - The Philippines Travel, Photography and Adventure Blog.

On the road top load from Tinglayan to Bontoc

It was one of those spontaneous trips I wasn’t sure it would push through. The Philippine habagat (southwest wind) has been whipping up mean rains in the metro it takes some effort to bypass the floods and the traffic. But I had my eyes set on Kalinga province for sometime, particularly to see their supposedly dying Batok (tattoo) art. So when the rains abated, we got a signal from our guide in Tinglayan of good weather there. I quickly packed my bags and prepared for the long road to Tinglayan, the jump-off for exploration on the province of Kalinga.

The jeep to Tinglayan, parked at Bulanao, Tabuk

The Road from Tabuk to Tinglayan

The direct way to Kalinga Province is by bus to Tabuk, the Capital of Kalinga Province. We took a 7:30pm deluxe Victory Liner bus from Kamias, QC which had its own restroom inside. But I have to remind myself not to choose the seats behind the restroom as there was little legroom here. The trip was faster than expected and we arrived in Bulanao, Tabuk in 10 hours. When I saw the monument with a water buffalo, we alighted the bus.

5am was way too early, good thing we chanced upon a half-opened shop owned by the amiable Derrel Estrañero (who turns out to be the brother of the vice mayor) and was gracious enough to accommodate us for coffee and mini-siopao. We passed time chatting, enjoying the cool morning air and watching locals jogging and biking on the main street. By 630am we were on the move.

The jeep to Tinglayan was large and heavy duty, ready to take in passengers and cargo at the same time. While the jeep was already parked and ready to take in passengers by 6:30am, the we did not leave until it was a little past 8am going by the Filipino’s Alas-puno (we move when its full) system. The ride to Tinglayan was reminiscent of the other rides in Cordillera regions, winding, with view of lush mountains, the occasional rice terraces but a community more rustic than the popular destinations in the area. We even had some stops to refill our water bottle with Kalinga’s free flowing drinking water – a luxury I may say when you live in the metro where a bottle of water has a price. We were lucky to only have 1 jeepney breakdown on the road which was remedied only in a few minutes. But it gave me a chance to see that most of our fellow passengers are women along with their young. By 3 hours we finally reached Tinglayan.

Bontoc town up ahead

The Road from Tinglayan to Bontoc

Heading back to Manila, we decided to go the other way, which is via Bontoc. This road stretch is the same route to Buscalan via Bugnay where the legendary Apo Whang-Og (Fang-Od) lived. It’s a really beautiful stretch parallel to the mighty Chico River. For a time, the mountain and ridges felt very similar to Batanes as we rode a narrow road close to a ravine with one side the rugged mountain terrain. I felt this was much better route (but I may be biased as I was too sleepy when we passed by the route from Tabuk). It was also much faster as we reached Bontoc in a little over two hours.

The Bulanao Landmarks in Tabuk, the St Williams Cathedral and monument

Essential Info

Going to Kalinga from Manila via Tabuk:

• Ride a Bus to Tabuk. Victory Liner has buses heading to Tabuk every evening. The De Luxe Bus that passes SCTEX leaves 7:30pm with a fare of Php 675 one way. Travel time is 10 hours. Regular bus schedule for the evening are 7:45, 8:45 and 9:15pm with a fare of Php 550. Travel time is 11-12 hours.
• Tell the bus driver to drop you off at Bulanao. Once you see the monument of a farmer and a water buffalo opposite St William’s Church you are already there.
• Walk a short distance at the wide Cagayan-Kalinga Road and you’ll see the Jeep going to Tinglayan there as well as the Bus to Bontoc.
• Jeeps usually leave at 7am if its already full. The next jeep is at 1pm. Jeep fare is Php 120 per person one way. Travel time is 2.5-3 hours.
• You can also ride the bus to Bontoc which also passes by Tinglayan. Leaves at 9am.

Going to Kalinga from Manila via Bontoc:

• From Manila there are several ways to Bontoc. The Cable Bus Tours departs 8:30pm inside the Trinity University in Quezon City straight to Bontoc. Fare is Php 600. Ohayami Bus (Near UST) has nightly trips to Banaue (Php 450) 9 hours travel time then take a jeep to Bontoc (Php 200) for another 3 hours travel. From Baguio there are buses going to Bontoc like GL Lizardo (Php 220) departs 8am, 10am and 2:30pm and D’Rising Sun (Php 220) starting from 5am to 1pm. Travel time Baguio to Bontoc is at least 6 hours.
• From Bontoc take a bus going to Tabuk found near the Mountain Province State Polytechnic College. Bus usually leaves the terminal at 9am. Fare is Php 110.
• There are also jeeps to Tinglayan and Tabuk in the area and leaves at 8am and 1pm. Fare is Php 110.

A jeepney stop to replenish water

The road running parallel to the mighty Chico River

View of Chico River and the mountains

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Sun over Sleeping Beauty Mountain

More than 15 hours on the road can take a toll, especially if there are lulls in between and I wasn’t able to get enough sleep from that night bus. But on the final stretch on the road from Tabuk to Tinglayan, I kept my eyes peeled, trying to pave-off these drowsy eyes just to see the winding road along the mountains, the rice terraces, the Chico River and on my left, the imposing Sleeping Beauty Mountain looming over the rustic town of Tinglayan, Kalinga. We reached the town center and our drop-off, none other the Sleeping Beauty Inn, where we met with our tour guide and our home in Tinglayan.

Breakfast at Sleeping Beauty Inn with views of the famed mountain

The Sleeping Beauty Inn

Located in the town center of Tinglayan by the provincial road side, Sleeping Beauty Inn is easy to find. Tinglayan only has a few accommodations (the other is Luplupa River Side Inn) but I find the location of this inn to my liking. It has its own grocery store, a restaurant and just a walk’s way to some establishments like the church, bridge and other eateries in the area.

The room is basic as expected. A large common area, rooms with shared bathrooms and one room with private bathroom and airconditioning. The place may look it has been there for sometime but owners have kept it clean. It used to be a vacation house by the former mayor Fernando Abay turned into lodging, as evidenced by the empty pool at the back. More importantly, the lodging have access to the rushing waters of Chico River and view of the legendary sleeping beauty. We had a small chit-chat with the ex-mayor and he once apologetically told us that “…our province can only offer nature – the mountains and the waterfalls” but isn’t that what people like us are looking for.

Clouds rising from the mountain

The Legendary Sleeping Beauty Mountain

Staying at the Sleeping Beauty Inn, we had the luxury to see the Sleeping Beauty mountain in different states from dramatic cloudy peaks in the morning to a sullen slumber mood in the afternoon. Also called as Mt Mating-oy Dinayao from Tinglayan and Mt Patukan by the Lubu Tribes who lived in this mountain is characteristically named from numerous versions of a folklore. The Sleeping Beauty is said to be a beautiful maiden named Dinayao who is in love with a dashing Luplupa villager named Binsay at first sight. Tribal wars forced Binsay to help out his village but promised to Dinayao he will be back to see her at the summit of Mt Patukan. However after some time, it was Binsay’s brother who returned to the summit to bring Dinayao the unfortunate news of his demise. Dinayao wept and vowed to stay in the mountain and bring her eternal love Binsay until her death. There is a viewpoint after the border to Tinglayan towards the road to Bontoc where the figure of Sleeping Beauty can seen more defined.

Chico River a short walk just behind the inn

The Chico River

Behind the inn is a pathway to Chico River, we decided to explore the banks after an afternoon squall has abated. There is a bridge leading to the residences on the other side. The river was raging at that time I bet would be an ideal place for some white water rafting or kayaking. The water was cool and clear on the gentle shallow areas by the river bank. It’s just amazing to be this close this mighty river stretching to 174.67 km in length. The “River of Life”, as the locals in Kalinga would call it.

Light and trees

The bridge over Chico River

House by the river

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The 93-years old broom maker in Buscalan Village

Have I discovered the secret to long life? It seems the people living in this highland village of Buscalan in Kalinga have. It amazes me to see how elders living in the age bracket of 80-90 and above are still nimble, skillful and can still manage to contribute to work. I’m not just talking about the legendary mambatok (traditional tattoo artist) Whang Od (Fang Od), whom we wanted to meet when we went to Buscalan. While I was dumbfounded to find her working under the sun drying out some beans, then carefully carrying those in a small sack at the age of 93-yo, her peers in the village could still run around circles to any sedentary couch-potato in the metro.

View of Buscalan Village on the right and the narrow trail on the left

From Tinglayan to Buscalan

It was a good idea that we decided to go to Buscalan the day after we arrived at Sleeping Beauty Inn because it would be disastrous to do the 2.5-3 hours hike with lack of sleep. We were with our local guide Francis Pa-in, who in his own right is quite a celebrity here already being featured in several blogs and a resource person from Lonely Planet Philippines. He knows the locals well and their language so it is easy to communicate with them.

We hopped on a jeep bound for Bontoc. The weather was fine and cool, just perfect for the top load experience. We had the best view of the road to Bontoc and I can’t help but be reminded of the rugged ridges of Batanes on this stretch. It took about 40 minutes until we reached the town of Bugnay, a historical town known for it’s brave villagers and birthplace of the tribal chief Macli-ing Dulag who led the charge against Marco’s plans about 4 decades ago to implement the Chico Dams Project, A four single-dam project that was supposed to be the largest in Southeast Asia at that time and generate about 1000mw of electricity but would also devastate the ancestral land leaving villages flooded forcing tribes to resettle. But the Kalinga were fiercely against it and fought the military to protect their ancestral home. Cordillera People’s Liberation Army (CPLA) was at the forefront of opposition led by Macli-ing Dulag who unfortunately died at the hands of the military but not before the Kalinga have beheaded a lot of soldiers. The Chico Dam project didn’t push through, the tribes saved their land but has already been tainted by this grim event which led to the reputation of Kalinga as land of the head hunters more known to many.

One of the traditional Kalinga houses in Buscalan

Buscalan Village

The initial 30 minutes ascent from the main road of Bugnay was steep and tiring. It was a short-cut but it doesn’t mean it is easy. Good thing the views of the mountains and terraces were spectacular. Then we reached the main road, large enough for vehicles to pass by. This goes on for more than an hour which was easy until we reached the end of the road where only a narrow pathway good enough for a person or two to pass by on the side of the mountain walls, the only trail to take. We could see Buscalan Village high up the opposite side of the mountains but we had to negotiate some steep paved trails and hell-of-a-lot of stairs past rice paddies. There was even a small waterfall before the main stair climb to the village but I was too weary to stay and take a photo. It was a relief when we finally reached Buscalan and immediately it was Fang Od, who stood from her chores to greet us personally.

These native pigs are just so cute

Overnight at the Village

I am amused with Buscalan Village. With about 126 households and a voting population of 668, I enjoyed the sight of their traditional houses, the native pigs freely roaming around, the locals welcomed our presence and curious kids looking out to us strange visitors. Don’t be surprised if some elder lady adorning a beautiful sleeve of Kalinga tattoo walks past you topless while doing her chore. We stayed at the house of Abu, Fang-Od’s niece, their family, even Fang-Od’s sister’s house are just side by side.

We got a soothing welcome with a warm cup of Kalinga Coffee, it was really goody, nutty and chocolatey and I could still see the grains left on every cup. Abu let us stay in their main bedroom which made us really special because they had to sleep at the kitchen. We dined with them and ate what they usually have for meals while sitting on the floor. We had plenty of brown mountain rice harvested from their fields, lots of beans and even native chicken tinola (chicken stew).

Fang Od’s tattooing is not the only industry to see in the village. We visited some houses where at their silong (usually bottom of the houses serving as a multipurpose area either for work or storage) we saw some people dong steel work. They were making knives and axes, there was this pocket knife with neat rattan grip handle. Then one house caught my eye with this wonderfully lit old man making some brooms. “He’s also 93 years old” says our guide Francis. I couldn’t believe it. Yes I could feel his strength from our handshake and I inspected the intricate patterns he makes on the broom handle.

One of the tattooed elderlies in Buscalan by the fence

Simple But Hard Life

Come evening temperature drops a bit and windchil goes up a notch. Even inside the house, barred windows and doors, the interior of Abu’s house was cool enough even without a fan. They don’t have TV here but one of their neighbor does have Cable Satellite. Sometimes they would chip-in for the prepaid cable fee if there’s a special event on TV like a Gilas game or probably a Pacquiao fight. Otherwise they are fond of transistor radios or now some USB MP3 players for some good ‘ol country music. They wanted me to play guitar but it’s been years since I’ve touched one and didn’t bring any piece so I begged off. I just played a game of chess with Abu’s young son, which seems to be a bad idea, it was one of the villages favorite past time and I was easily clobbered after several games that evening.

The people of Buscalan have interesting beliefs as well. Graves of their relatives are buried within their land, shows how close knit family ties are. If you see a male sporting long hair, chances are, his wife may have died since husbands are not allowed to cut their hair for a period of 1 year. Buscalan is a beautiful village but its remoteness can be a challenge for them as well like if one gets sick. The locals actually encourage people to bring more medicine for their village as they have little. As for the secret to their long life? I don’t think their not doing anything special aside from eating healthy organic food, breathing clean air and most especially they get a lot of exercise just going through those numerous stairs!

Kids at the village and a grave at one of the houses

Essential Info

We recommend Francis Pa-in as a guide here in Kalinga. He’s a Kalinga who has been guiding people in the area for over 2 decades already. At this time, he charges Php 800/pax/day, Php 500/pax a group of two, Php 1,250 for 3-4 people, P1,500 for a group of 5-8. You may reach him at +63915.7690843

To go to Buscalan, take a Jeepney bound to Bontoc from Tinglayan (usually around 8am and 1pm and 9am for a bus) and alight at Bugnay, which is about 40 minutes away. Jeppney fare is Php 20/pax

Portrait of a 93-year old broom maker

A puppy enjoying the warmth of the house kitchen

The silong of their native house used for multiple purposes, this one is for steel works

Making blades and knives under the house

A native chicken and some beans being dried under the sun

Typical scene at the village

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Fang-Od holding her soot ink

The rhythmic sound of two sticks tapping was sort of meditative and relieving as each tap means the citrus thorn at the end of one stick has pierced through a shallow layer of my skin and left a permanent ink mark underneath. The pain from this batok (tattooing)? It was noticeable at first, like a multitude stingy ant bite but bearable, but I have always regarded myself having high tolerance for pain so it wasn’t as painful as I expected it to be. But I’d rather Whang-Od (Fang-OD), the 93-year old famed mambabatok (tattoo artist) of Buscalan Kalinga, not stopping any sooner with her tapping as it seems to bring a numbing sensation than pausing then starting over again. In between I tried to ask some questions while she works on my skin like canvass and our guide Francis was kind enough to translate.

The stick and the thorn

The Batok

I was supposed to get a tattoo just in front of her house but another hut was being constructed nearby. Construction noise was too distracting for her so we moved up to where we were staying, at her niece’s house. Never mind the roaming native pigs, dogs or neighbors passing by, the toned down sound of construction was much better. Then again I learned that Fang-Od also owns that house being constructed. Business must be a lot better for her these days.

The process of her traditional tattoo has much been written in many blogs already so I’ll go by it briefly. As needle, Fang-Od uses thorns from a citrus plant (like calamansi or lime), attached it to the end of a stick. Another stick is used for tapping. The ink she uses came from soot burned from a special pine wood. As we started, I sat on this very low stool, she drew the pattern on my shoulder using strands from a leaf dabbed in ink. Once she’s satisfied with the pattern, she started tapping away.

Adding more pattern guides to an almost finished python tattoo

Cultural Philippine Tattoos

Fang-Od is one of the main reason people visit Kalinga these days. It’s either to take photos of her and her peers with their tribal Kalinga tattoos or have themselves inked by this living legend of an artist who is keeping their batok art alive. Sadly, the tradition of having tattoos no longer appeal to the new generation due to modernization. “Before, families would trade a huge pig or two just to have their daughters tattooed” said Fang Od in her native language. She recalls that it takes her about two days to finish a full upper body tattoo on a woman, one side a day. During those times, tattoos were not just for personal expression but conformity to culture. For men and women it has a deeper meaning than aesthetics. To quote Lane Wilcken (author of “Filipino Tattoos: Ancient to Modern”):

“In the past, both men and women were tattooed. Women received their tattoos at puberty because of their innate power and connection to the ancestors through life-bearing. Men in contrast had to earn their tattoos. Men have to prove their power and connection to the ancestors, usually proven through bravery and heroism in warfare”

Fang-Od herself had her tattoo when she was 14 years old from another renowned mambabatok from the village of Ngibat, named Pang-ad. She got fascinated with the art itself and started tattooing when she was 18 years old. She had a natural talent for details and hands with surgical-like precision for the art. We even met a woman who is now in her 60s who proudly showed us her sleeves tattoos done by Fang-od when she was 12. The tattoo details where still crisp on her skin even at her age.

Has she denied people of her tattoos? Yes, she replied fondly and even with an amusing laugh. She recounts some foreigner from Europe who got really pale after a few initial taps. She knew this foreigner couldn’t handle it so she stopped even if this foreigner begged her. There were instances though that she would continue like the case of another foreigner having a tattoo on her leg but fainted mid-way from pain but they continued after she regained consciousness. Fang-Od said she will look at the person first and see if he or she can handle the process. She can even noticed the quality of the skin, how the blood holds on the skin during the tattooing process.

Fang-Od (left) and her grand daughter Grace Palicas (right)

The Last Mambabatok?

I think a lot of people were in panic and wanted to have a remembrance from Fang-Od who is currently (as of this writing) at the age of 93. People feared she may pass away soon, but after seeing her carry that little sack of beans, moving nimbly as if she was younger than her age, still having a sharp memory and keen eyesight, I’m sure she’ll have more years ahead of her. But people are still worried since Fang-Od never had a child. Francis told us she had many suitors during her younger years but never married even having relations with some of them.

Kalinga Batok Art may still have a chance to continue on. The interest in batok  may have skipped a generation in her family but the apo (grand-daughter to her sister), Grace Palicas, is showing promise and interest to continue this traditional batok art. This reluctant 17-year old AB English Student in Tabuk has occasionally been doing the traditional tattoo when time allows her. She has even seen exposure on the recent Dudutan Festivals in Manila. She is still exploring the art and has learned a few tips from Fang-Od herself. Who knows what path she would undertake but it gives us hope that Kalinga batok Art wouldn’t vanish as easily.

An hour and a half after, Fang-Od was done with my tattoo. I chose a python which symbolizes strength to the Kalinga tribe, a friend of the warriors like the centipede symbol which brings protection. One of the few many patterns and symbols they have (another topic altogether) . This is my first ever tattoo and I was happy with the outcome. No I didn’t get this tattoo just to look tough but I somehow wanted to experience even a part of this culture first hand. I considered this experience as a birthday gift to myself as well. To feel the honor of having a renowned artist like Fang-Od to use my skin as a canvas to one of her works. I remember asking her what was her favorite designs. “This is one of my favorite!” she said. I’m not sure if she’s joking but I am sure she puts her heart in every tattoo she makes. No wonder villagers in Kalinga regard her highly.

The author getting inked by Fang-Od

Many thanks to my friend Oggie Ramos of lagalog.com for some of my photos here.

The post Conversations with Fang-Od, the Famed Mambabatok of Buscalan appeared first on Ironwulf.net: En Route - The Philippines Travel, Photography and Adventure Blog.

Buscalan clouded peaks and a twin falls seen on the trail

“Our priority is to get back to Tinglayan!” I said when we were discussing about our plans for the next day. We wanted to somehow include the falls and springs in Kalinga but it seems time isn’t on our side. It’s either we go back the same route to Bugnay or we go by Francis’s suggestion – a Kalinga Villages Traverse to the next two villages of Butbut and Ngibat then descending at Liyao for the main road to Tinglayan. We decided to go with the latter not really knowing what we’re getting into.

The author on the trail in between Buscalan and Butbut Villages

Hike to Butbut Village

A fresh cup of Kalinga Coffee and a hefty breakfast of egg, brown rice and sardines to fuel us for what would be a long trek. “Kumain kayo mabuti at wala kayo pagkain sa daan! (Eat well because there’s no food on the road!)” Abu, Fang-Od’s niece, amusingly told us. Even if it’s just the next village, even their family don’t often go there unless necessary. Grace even haven’t been there. We said our good byes to the family and started our hike by 8am.

Just outside Buscalan Village is their terraces. Midway trekking the rice paddies, the mountains were wonderfully obscured by rising clouds. The peaks ahead of us had thin mist hanging and on one side we could see a twin falls flowing. I wondered if it would be possible to get there but I think it would take considerable time and hike. It was like this for an hour or so. Postcard-worthy views of mountains and rice terraces until we reach Butbut Village.

Butbut Village seems to be smaller, but who knows as we only passed through the main road. Our encounters with the locals was warm though, from taking shelter under the shade in one of the house where the woman was arranging twigs and we met a former high-ranking NPA office during the Marcos times, he is aged but his handshake was strong and showed a few of his tattoos like badge. His friends were there and was also admiring the tattoo I had. One guy at the house was also offering me food but I just nodded in thanks.

Mountain layers and Ngibat Village on the horizon

Hike to Ngibat Village

It seems Francis Pa-in is really popular in these parts, on the occasions we would meet people on the road they would chat in their own language then curiously would turn to me and I would show my tattoo and they would be delighted seeing it. While it feeds my ego that this tattoo feels like a badge of accomplishment, I get the feeling that they admire it more because it is Fang-Od’s work. Fang-Od is really a celebrity and people admire what she does.

The hike to Ngibat Village was longer and more challenging. It was a shift from open and seemingly converging trails to nowhere then we would go deep into mountainside narrow trails with thick vegetation, ascending and descending a few times I couldn’t count. I would get lost here by myself, am thankful Francis was with us. My supplies were also depleting. Good thing I brought a few biscuits and nuts as it seems we won’t have any lunch stop. When we reached Ngibat Village, I was glad to replenish my water supply. We could now see Chico River and the provincial road from Ngibat Village, the home of Pang-ad, the tattoo artist who did Fang-Od’s tattoo. Also we could see the trail ahead. Oh this would take time still.

Chico River and the provincial road seen from Ngibat Village

Descending to Liyao and a long Walk to Tinglayan

I was thankful it didn’t rain even if the clouds showed impending signs. The trail descends towards the main provincial road, but it was a long and narrow, paved trail with probably a hundreds of steps. I think this would be dangerously slippery when wet and a good traction shoes would be helpful. The wooden walk stick we improvised was helpful to keep our momentum in balance. We reached a rest stop by noon and we could see Bugnay Village again on the far right. From here-on it still took us at least an hour to get back on the road through careful descend.

It was a relief to finally be back on the road again once we reached Liyao. But it’s still at least 5km to go for Tinglayan. I was already hungry, dead tired and feeling icky from all the sweat and grime so I picked up pace. When I already saw Luplupa, Tinglayan, I was relieved. We dropped off Francis and paid him for his service when we reached is house at the turn to Luplupa. We invited him to join us that night for dinner. But first we devoured what we could find at Shepherd’s Restaurant just across the church. It was lunch at almost 3pm but we didn’t care. Oh Francis never showed up for dinner, he apologized the next morning as he said he was just exhausted and decided to stay home. We understood. It was one hell of a trek, I’m not sure I would do that Kalinga Villages Traverse again (for now).

Essential Info

Tracing our route, the Kalinga Villages Traverse from Bugnay, Buscalan, Butbut, Ngibat, Liyao to Tinglayan

Estimated Hike time in moderate pace

• Bugnay (provincial road) to Buscalan Village is 2.5-3 hours 
• Buscalan to Butbut Village is 1.5 hours
• Butbut to Ngibat Village is 1.5- 2 hours
• Ngibat to Liyao Village (main road) 1.5-2 hours
• Liyao to Tinglayan is 1 hour

Early start of the hike from Buscalan

Rice terraces and shrouded mountains in Buscalan

Butbut Village on sight

Descending to Liyao from Ngibat Village

View of Luplupa from the road to Tinglayan

The post Kalinga Villages Traverse | The Buscalan-Butbut-Ngibat-Liyao-Tinglayan Village Trek appeared first on Ironwulf.net: En Route - The Philippines Travel, Photography and Adventure Blog.

Arriving at Laguindingan Airport

I must admit, Iligan City is one of those cities in Mindanao that sees little tourist because of its smeared reputation from past “bombing” incidents in the city. I even remember a friend telling me that “I have to dodge bombs there before I can visit the waterfalls”. But I learned many times already from past visits to Tawi-tawi, Basilan and even Cotabato to not hastily judge a place by how media perceives it. One thing I know for a fact, Iligan City has plenty of waterfalls, 23 of them documented, and for a waterfall chaser like me, I know I’m gonna have a field day in this city. More apt this time is that Iligan Bloggers Society, organised a Waterfalling Adventure Tour event, where in 5 days, we get to explore 7 waterfalls, experience the festivities and culture of Iligan. I only have to shell out a minimum amount, my flight ticket and I don’t have to trouble myself in logistics . How can I resist that? I signed up immediately and was lucky to be one of the participants to this year’s tour. It’s time to experience Iligan!

Landing 20 minutes earlier at Laguindingan Airport

Manila to Iligan City

My entry point was Laguindingan Airport in Misamis Oriental. A newly opened airport that serves both Iligan City and Cagayan de Oro being sandwiched in both regions. I had an early 5:20am flight and got in 20 minutes earlier in Laguindingan. The airport was impressively handsome and feels international-worthy. I got my bags in no time and boarded a CDO Transco Multi-cab to Iligan City. It was fairly easy to get a ride as I got out of the arrival area and the multi-cab wasn’t even filled with passengers. The ride took longer than an hour. The multi-cab ride was okay but the morning sun made the interiors a lot warmer even with the aircon turned on. The advantage of the multi-cab is that it can get inside the city streets. I found my stop easily and alighted to my lodging for the next 5 nights.

Our room at Jasmine’s (left), the Bonsai Garden (top right), Coffee and breakfast at Kopi Luwak (bottom right)

Lodging at Jasmine’s Pension Home

The multi-cab driver did not know about Jasmine’s Pension Home but they do know it was the hotel formerly known as Casa Royal Inn. It was a good thing the place was easy to spot on the main Andres Bonifacio Ave. Despite arriving early I was able to check in to our room. We have a group room with 2 queen-sized bed and 3 single beds, a huge make-up room that can fit 2 more beds, a walk in closet and the toilet and bath. Not bad I may say. The place is bundled together with the Kopi Luwak Cafe, one of the places in Iligan known for serving Civet Coffee, the very nice Bonsai Garden at back and the Jasmine’s Spa up front. This is also where I met the rest of the travel bloggers from Mindanao participating in the tour.

Scenes from the plaza: Vendor on a wheelchair and the Badjao group rehearsal

Iligan City Tour

Iligan is part of Lanao del Norte and is one of the 10 largest cities in the country with an area of 314 sq mi and a population of at least 323,000. From the downtown, the main street is a bustling with relatively few high rises. Jeeps and multi-cabs are the main transport. I like that provincial buses are not allowed to drop or take in passengers in the city except for the terminal. There’s a thriving coffee culture here and food has plenty of choices and relatively cheaper than that of Manila. I think Iliganons are easy going people. They have night life but they are more sociable so they would rather talk and share stories over food and drinks while a live band or music is playing.

The afternoon was spent getting to know the city. From the courtesy call with the Mayor Regencia at their top-of-the-hill municipal, we found the Anahaw Amphitheater (named from the trees in the area) and the city plaza where people and contingents seem busy preparing and rehearsing for the Dyandi Streetdance happening in a couple of days. The walk to the St Michael’s Cathedral, with its eye-catching pink walls, gave me an interesting glimpse of the street life in Iligan. From the vendors, to the people passing time on chess and some of the homeless people on the streets. I could say it’s like any other city, I didn’t get a feeling of being watched or on heightened alert unlike when I was walking in the streets of Basilan.

Goodies from Jacko’s Kan-anan. The crispy squid (center) is my fave.

Jacko’s Kan-anan and the Bloggers

Dinner and night-cap was at Jacko’s Kan-anan, a very Filipino and festive ambiance restaurant with walls and furnitures made of bamboo. Aside from having tasted one of the best Crispy Squids and seafood platter (and oh those cute mini rice cauldrons), we also got to know more about Iligan Bloggers Society (IBS), The Waterfalling Adventure Tour 2 (WAT 2.0) and our fellow travel bloggers from Manila and Mindanao. It was just amazing to be surrounded with people who had the same zest for waterfalls and travel. So here’s some link love to my cool companions during the waterfalling adventure.

• Glen (Escape Manila)
• Doi (The Travelling Feet)
• Marky (Nomadic Experiences)
• Fredda (Trekking in the Tropics)
• Shugah (Wander Shugah)
• Leia (Technicolor Waves of Rhapsody)
• Yobz (Ayosa Oi)
• Clement (Best Spots in the Phillippines)
• Tzaddi (Buttered Toast)

This year’s blogger participants at WAT 2: From the top clockwise (Marky, Leia, Doi, Glen, Shugah, Clement, Tzaddi, Fredda, Ferdz, Yobz)

Essential Info

Getting in and out of Laguindingan Airport (LIA) from Iligan City

CDO Transco Php 130/pax. At LIA they are just outside the arrival area. In Iligan they are located at Petron Tibanga (near H30). First trip from Iligan is 3:00am. What I liked about this multi-cab service is they don’t wait to fill the vehicle with passengers and can drop off people in the city. Travel time is much slower compared to the bus. Contact numbers 0942.447.555 / 0923694.6442 / 0942.280.0004

Super 5 Airport Shuttle and Transport Php 85 Bus fare + Php 50 for the shuttle to LIA. Also found at LIA arrival area. In Iligan, they are at the bus terminal. The Super 5 Buses are usually bound for Cagayan de Oro but drops off passengers at the junction to LIA where the airport shuttle is waiting. The airport shuttle gives priority to Super 5 passengers. What I liked about the Super 5 Bus is it’s very comfortable and the bus is very nice. Travel time is also faster.

You can also refer to PinayTravelista’s LIA Transportation Guide here for more details.

Many Thanks to our Sponsors

Jasmine Pension Home
Andres Bonifacio Avenue, Barangay Tibanga,
National Highway, Iligan City
Contact: (063) 221.7363 / 0932.888.9122

Jacko’s Kan-anan
National Highway, Hinaplanon, Iligan City
Contact: (063) 222.4610 / 0917.716.8773
Web: www.jackos.com.ph

At the Anahaw Amphitheater

Street vendor and goods

Chess games at the plaza

The post Into Iligan City : Getting to Know the City of Waterfalls appeared first on Ironwulf.net: En Route - The Philippines Travel, Photography and Adventure Blog.

Plunging into Pampam Falls

“Let’s call this one Junakis Falls!” I remember Shugah telling the group as we were trying to recall the name of the first 2 falls we visited in Barangay Dalipuga. Well they don’t really have a name so locals consider it as part of the nearby Pampam Falls. There may be 23 falls in Iligan City but those are documented ones, this one had no name, but the crystal clear basin was calling and the cool cascades inviting. Oh what a start for our “waterfalling” adventure.

The hike to Pampam Falls

Waterfalling 101

I think there’s no such word as “Waterfalling”, which somehow means similar to the waterfall hopping. But I would forgive those Iliganons who thought of it, as they have every right to coin such word in Iligan City having so much waterfalls in the vicinity. This is the 2nd year of the Waterfalling Adventure Tour (or WAT 2.0) that is organised by Iligan Bloggers Society (IBS). A group initiative to help promote Iligan City tourism which coincides with the month-long Dyandi Festival.

The middle stagnant pool falls

Off to Pampam Falls

First day of our Waterfalling Adventure is to visit 3 falls in one day. Quite possible as these three are in neighbouring Baranggays of Dalipuga and Kalubihon. Pampam Falls was on top of our list. It was a perfect day for waterfalling, the sun was high but with occasional clouds rolling by. Our jeep crawled up high the dirt road towards the villages. From that high vantage point we could see the huge quarry trail site where the devastating Typhoon Sendong left a mark almost 2 years ago in this City. A harrowing event that took many lives and still lingers to the minds of many Iliganons. But Iliganons are resilient folks and were able to recover.

Marky carefully descends the lower falls

The No Name Falls

It was a fairly easy 20 minutes hike from our jump off at a waiting shed near the Kalubihon Elementary School. The trail has gradual up and down slopes and fairly good cover of coconut trees passing by a few local houses and coconut farms. We stopped by this first low, 10-15 feet falls with stagnant basin, but it was a falls still and the group can’t help to have some posterity shots there. It was nice like an umbrella rock as a cascade. The moss under the stagnant pool adds an interesting turquoise color. I wouldn’t swim there though.

We were curious though when a group of local teens took a descending trail downwards from that stagnant falls. A little boy told us that there’s a nice waterfalls down there. Marky got curious so I followed his lead and alas we found a very nice waterfalls with a wide clear basin that the locals really enjoyed swimming and jumping into. The way down is a bit of a challenge as we were on top of the falls but nothing that a careful descent can’t manage. Soon, the group came in and ended up swimming on this unnamed falls. Too bad we had a schedule to keep and proceeded shortly to the said Pampam Falls.

Yes its hard to resist this falls with that kind of water

Not so Pampam

Pampam in their local Bisaya language doesn’t really sound pleasant as it means “prostitute or a sex worker”. It was a really short ascending hike before we could reach the basin. The 25-30 feet high rock formation where the water flows looks like a giant skull with a couple of small caves like eye-sockets. The basin though was wonderful, 5-6 feet deep and wide enough for a group of 10-20 or more people to bathe in at the same time. It’s a popular picnic spot for the locals as we found out especially on the weekends. There were already a few of them there even on a weekday.

It was already noon when we got there and our stomachs have other plans – to have lunch first. We had a picnic on a small hill overlooking the falls and where locals kids would dive from to the falls basin. Pampam Falls is nice but I honestly like the “no name” falls below better, pristine and all. Pampam Falls is akin to its name, beautiful but used and abused already (see the vandalism on the rocks?) by too many people. No wonder the locals call this falls that. But still Pampam Falls is worth a visit. Just don’t get caught in the crowd.

The Pampam Falls

Essential Info

To get to Pampam Falls, take a Kalubihon bound jeep from Iligan City proper. Another option is a Dalipuga bound jeep but alight at the Kalubihon junction. Travel time is half an hour. At the crossing, hire a habal-habal to Kalubihon Elementary School. From there ask the locals for a guide to the falls. Hike is about 20 minutes.

More views of the falls

The post The Pristine No Name Falls Leading to Pampam Falls appeared first on Ironwulf.net: En Route - The Philippines Travel, Photography and Adventure Blog.

Backpack Photography El Nido Photo Tour

It’s time to share what I love about Palawan and El Nido is definitely one of the reasons why it’s one of my top favorite in the country. To kickstart 2014, Backpack Photography will hold an El Nido Photo Tour, to make it more interesting, we’re coinciding the photo tour in time for the Ati-atihan festival, but this time on a little known town of Barotuan. It’s an added photo opportunity to participants who would not only enjoy the sights but the culture as well. Read on for the details.

For more details and registration please visit Backpack Photography.

The post El Nido Photo Tour January 2014 Festival Edition appeared first on Ironwulf.net: En Route - The Philippines Travel, Photography and Adventure Blog.