Beachfront of Anika Island Resort

I’ve always liked resorts with character. As soon as our van drove in at the Anika Island Resort in Sta Fe, Bantayan Island, Cebu, I thought those container-type accommodations look cozy. I haven’t tried staying in one so I was very curious how they manage to repurpose them as lodgings. Anika Island Resort already had a great location along a beautiful stretch of white sand beach on Bantayan Island and the added comfort of their facilities and services makes for a memorable leisure escape.

Our courtyard cottage

Accommodations

Anika Island Resort has a straightforward layout. From the parking area, all the rooms are located on the sides with the center serving as a direct pathway to the beach. Room tpes vary with the farthest from the beach as the cheapest. The Courtyard view, Garden View, Sunrise View, Ocean View and Sunset Villas in order with the Chloe Cafe found in the middle.

With high occupancy at that time, most of our group were on the Courtyard View but we didn’t mind as the beach is only a short walk. The rooms are not that different as well with 12sqm and 14sqm in size difference. It may not look big on paper but once inside, its impressive how they managed to maximize real-estate in this big can. Rooms can either be large queen beds or twin beds. We got a twin bed but they were able to squeeze in a cloths shelf, a side table, small cabinet, LCD TV on the wall and aircondition. The bathroom just have the proper proportion to move around. Not too big nor small either.

To make up for room size though is the spacious terrace with tables and chairs guest can hang around. Each room also have their own broom so people can sweep out any sands outside the room or the balcony. And before going up the stairs up, there’s a faucet for washing up unwanted grime. Wifi strength depends on the proximity of the rooms to the cafe where the router is located.

Inside our courtyard view room

Chloe Cafe

The Chloe Cafe is a piece of work. It is spacious and airy structure made with materials from recycled metal scraps and wood. This place acts as the reception and dining area. I certainly liked their food. Their seafood are fresh and tasty. I also enjoyed their breakfast, especially their dried squid and danggit.

Breakfast of dried squid

Summary

There’s a lot of good things going for Anika Island Resort. Aside from the good location along a white beach, the accommodations are modestly good but full of character at a price that’s just right. Service is warm and accommodating. Despite the distance from the Chloe Cafe to our room, staff would bring our orders with a smile. The place is really a great to relax and especially enjoy with friends and families. It’s easy to get lost in the moment just sitting under the shade on one of their lounge chairs by the beach and comfortably enjoy the tropical scenery.

Anika Island Resort
F. Roska St., Bantayan Island, Bantayan Island, Philippines 6047

Check Rates and Book Online

Room TV View

Room balcony

Access tot he beach

Chloe cafe interior

The post Cebu Stay | Anika Island Resort at Sta Fe Beach Bantayan Island appeared first on Ironwulf En Route Travel Blog Philippines and Beyond.

Beautiful Talisay Tree by the beach

If the mainland beach of Bantayan Island at Sta Fe is not enough for a true-blooded beach bum, which, mind you is already a lovely stretch based on my personal standard, visitors still have options to explore the nearby islands. Second day, mid-day of our Oceana Photo Safari, we’re still at the start of our exploration of Tañon Strait in which the Bantayan Islands is a part of. The small Virgin Island, about 45 minutes off the coast of Sta Fe by outrigger boat was our destination.

Arriving at Virgin Island

Not So Virgin Island

Commonly known as Virgin Island, the island also goes by the name Sillon Island (sometimes spelled as Silion) and in Google Maps as Pulo Diyot. A low elevation island at about 14 meters on its highest terrain. The island has good vegetation cover on its 25 hectare land with most of its stunning white beach stretch concentrated on the southwestern part of the island until limestone rocks separate  and hides shorter span of beaches on the other sides.

True clear aquamarine waters surround the island, inviting enough to jump-off early even before we docked on its shores. The island is not really as virgin as I thought. It is inhabited and there are already a few provisions for visitors like cabanas, restrooms and other tropical adornments scattered through the beach. No resorts though which is a good thing. Our group found a nice tropical cabana with sawali roof, a curtain of shells and a ceiling fan mounted nicely on a wooden board.

Our friend Lak Bay freediving near the ocean floor

Fantastic Swim

Though there were already a few creature comforts on the island, the gleaming sand under the mid-day sun, the refracting light dancing on the seabed seen through clear ocean waters, the deep cobalt sky with thick cumulus clouds just steadily hanging up in the air, and coconut trees bending gracefully to the sea as if beckoning me to take a dip is simply a picture perfect tropical paradise. We enjoyed our swim, but I guess not as much as the two young boys already dark skinned from playing under the sun since we came in around 10am up to way past our lunch time.

It was hard to resist the waters and even harder to leave. Even from the numerous coaxing from my companions that lunch was already served and there wouldn’t be left for me if I don’t come up yet. Water was absolutely clear. There weren’t as much corals and only a few fish there but it definitely was fun to swim around. A natural pool I’m sure families would enjoy. After a quick lunch, as tempting as to lay down on our cabana floor for a siesta, we looked at the ocean having the same thought in our heads. One more swim before we leave.

Couple of kids playing

Essential Info

Virgin Island has an entrance fee of Php 500 for 1-5 persons and and extra Php 100 for additional head. Cottage or cabana rental starts from Php 300-800. Boat rentals from Sta Fe is from Php 800-1000 depending on the size and haggling skills. Guest can bring their own food. Anika Island Resort can also arrange a tour.

Deep cobalt sky

About Oceana Philippines

Oceana Philippines seeks to restore the health, richness, and abundance of the Philippine oceans. By working closely with civil society, academics, fishers, and government, Oceana Philippines will promote the use of sound science based policies to help ensure sustainable fisheries and vibrant marine ecosystems.

Follow Oceana Philippines on Facebook and Twitter.

Getting near the island with inviting clear waters

Our boat docked on the island

Lounge chairs and umbrellas

Way to fish feeding area

Bending tree

Clear waters and sandy bed

Snorkeling by the limestone rocks

One of the kids enjoying the swim

The post Tañon Strait | Mesmerized by Bantayan’s Virgin Island White Sand appeared first on Ironwulf En Route Travel Blog Philippines and Beyond.

Flying kites at Bontay Baywalk

Bantayan in northern Cebu is also the northern tip of Tañon Strait protected area. Other than Sta Fe and the Virgin island, we visited Madridejos found north of Bantayan Island facing the Visayan seas. A town formerly known as Lawis, it was the first settlement north of the island. In 1917, the town was renamed Madridejos in honor of Benito Romero de Madridejos the former Archbishop of Cebu. Prior to World War II, Madridejos enjoyed being the “Little Alaska of the Philippines” because of its rich fishing ground. The first canning factory in the country was also here until it was bombed during the war. Our visit with Oceana Philippines seeks to observe and capture the communal richness of Tañon Strait with the people of Madridejos.

A dried fish vendor amidst a colorful tarp

Madridejos Market

The bounty of the sea can be reflected on the variety of goods available at the nearby fish market. Madridejos Market is moderately sized, clean and well organized for a public market. It was interesting to interact to some of the sellers curiously asking why we were taking photos of them and their goods. Sapsap (pony fish), espada (beltfish), danggit (dried fish) and tocino isda (cured fishes) were some of the items they sell and also supply to bigger stores in and outside Cebu. We brought what we fancied (for me the tocino fish and danggit), even the camote fries and pinipig balls from a Senior Citizen Cooperative stall were not spared.

Daing (dried fish)

Busy minding her goods

More variety of dried fishes

Cutting up tocino fish for packing

Kota park sunset on the next page…

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From the river to the sea at Aloguinsan Cebu

It was a relief that after travelling at least four hours from Bantayan Island, then a short 200 meter hike from the roadside, we were welcomed with Cebuano folk songs by the staffs of BAETAS (Bojo Aloguinsan Ecotourism Association). I may not fully understand the words but I could feel the collective liveliness from the group vocals to the energetic strums of the lone guitar. We were on the third day of our Oceana Philippines photo safari at Tañon Strait. We traveled southwest to the town of Aloguinsan to experience their Bojo River Cruise, the towns foremost attraction with activities revolving around the 1.4km river leading to Tañon Strait.

Welcome performance of Cebuano songs upon arrival

Community-Run Eco-Tourism

We were led to the thatched hut overlooking Bojo River which also serves as the reception area for the Bojo River Cruise guests. It was little past lunch so our eyes lit up at the buffet of local flavors laid on a table from the chicken soup, humba, grilled tuna with a few rice cakes for dessert and special blend of tea. While partaking our lunch, we were also oriented about this community endeavour that seeks to preserve the river, the mangrove ecosystem while providing livelihood to the locals.

Short hike to the reception area

The Bojo River Cruise

Our journey starts with a palina ritual, a tradition of wafting smoke along the guest coming from a burning coconut husk in a claypot to ensure safe voyage and in our case, the cruise. An interesting pre-hispanic practice still observed till this day especially during all-saints day. Life vest were given to each which is a requirement. From the small wooden jetty, our outrigger boats paddled through the turquoise-hued Bojo River walled by mangroves and a variety of plants. Our guide was quite knowledgeable of the environ, he cited that there are 96 plant species living by the river which includes 22 species of mangroves. Majority of those are the palm-like mangroves which are used as roof materials for traditional huts. Our guide was even able to distinguish birds from their sounds and there are 61 bird species inhabiting Bojo River.

It was a tranquil cruise as our boatmen paddled towards an inlet where we was saw the transition of the waters from turquoise to a deeper blue. Towering cliff walls open to the vast Tañon Strait like a hole. Interestingly the word “Bojo” pronounced as bo-ho, in Visayan dialect refers to a “hole”, a unique characteristic of this mangrove river cruise. Near the mouth of the cave, guest can snorkel and discover the pristine reef lining the cliffs extending 1km wide across the coastline. It was unfortunate I left my snorkeling gear at our van but one of our companions did snorkel. The dense number of jellyfish dissuaded my interest though.

Wooden pier

River riding through thick mangroves

22 species of mangrove live in the area

The river opening viewed from the sea

Farmhouse sidetrip and essential info on the next page…

The post Tañon Strait | Bojo River Cruise: An Aloguinsan Eco-Cultural Trip appeared first on Ironwulf En Route Travel Blog Philippines and Beyond.

Chilling by the inspiration point at Hale Manna

The road seemed to stretch farther and deeper as the afternoon. We’ve been on the road since mid-morning. While we had a welcome respite from the road travel at Aloguinsan for the Bojo River Cruise, I must admit I was getting a bit antsy to reach our home for the night in Moalboal. Though the ride was roughly an hour and a half long, the road became narrower and dustier as we left the highway. We were looking for Hale Manna Beach Resort and Coastal Garden, located almost at the tip of this short protrusion of a land southwest of Cebu. There was surprise in seclusion as we found out as Hale Manna is bursting with good vibes and energy.

Our room at Hale Manna

Capacious Rooms

It was the blue hour when we checked in at Hale Manna. I couldn’t help but walk across the garden from the main building and look at the promontory to see the Tañon Strait reflecting the purplish residual light. Lanterns lit up as I walk back to the main building where most of the lodgings are located. The common reception area as well as the living room with veranda at the second floor has elegant furnishings, very Filipino in character with touches of oriental elements.

The rooms are enormous! We had a room with four beds but still have space enough for a couple more. Bathroom is a room on its own by its sheer size. During mealtimes service was a little laid back as expected but the food we tried, mostly Filipinos food were done well and worth the wait.

Enjoy the sunset sitting on one of the adirondack chairs

Coastal Garden

A mixture of chirps and tweets from a variety of birds can be heard through the closed capiz windows. Something of a luxury for city folks who find joy and amuse waking up at nature’s natural discorded tune. Seeing the coastal garden in bright light deepened my appreciation on the resort. Malabato trees cling on the cliff walls and occasional chairs, benches and lounge beds scattered on the grounds, each an idyllic spot for solitude.

Afternoons are magical at Hale Manna. After a day of exploring fringed reefs and marvelling at the underwater denizens of Tañon Strait, the coastal garden is a felicitous spot to spend the end of the day watching the sunset. Perhaps comfortably sitting on one of the Adirondack chairs at the Inspiration Point and feel the good energy flowing through the garden. Hale Manna in Hawaiian means “House of Good Energy” and it is definitely flowing boundlessly beyond the main houses’s corridor and expanding through the garden towards the sea.

Hale Manna is an eden. A haven for writers and artist. For weary souls seeking healing. And for us travelers, a place to stop for a while, rest our feet and align our energies.

Main building at Hale Manna

Hale Manna Beach Resort and Coastal Gardens
web: www.halemanna.com
contact:
Becky Pestaño-Smith, Owner
bpsmith888@gmail.com
(+63-032) 316-2603 | (+63-922) 842-4939 | (+63-917) 546-6929

Common area at the second floor

Al fresco dining

Find your spot in one of these breezy huts

Rent a kayak and explore

My ideal reading spot

Shooting at low tide

Sunset on the shallows

The post Cebu Stay | Energies Aligned at Hale Manna Moalboal appeared first on Ironwulf En Route Travel Blog Philippines and Beyond.

Crossing the stream to Matangkib Cave

“Where are you girls going?” we asked curiously as three girls young girls, ages ranging from 10–12 were going down a trail almost unnoticeable from the dense vegetation just below the famed. “Down to check on our goats by the cave?” one said. A cave? I thought for a moment and probably she was referring to the Sagada Underground River Cave found deep into the valley. “Let’s follow them!” My newfound towering Russian companion excitedly suggested our group. In the many times I have visited Sagada, I don’t remember having visited the cave before so we just followed the young girl’s footsteps.

The trail from the Hanging Coffins

Trek to the Sagada Underground River

I was back in Sagada partly for work but with a couple of companions who were first timers in Sagada. Owell was a fellow photography enthusiast who always dreamt of visiting this highland town, Ilya, the young Russian I met in a hostel in Baguio was travelling the country for only two weeks. With little English and occasional conversation via Google Translate, he asked if he can tag along when I go to Sagada which was fine with me. Being new to the place, I thought of guiding both of them to Echo Valley and the distinct Sagada Hanging Coffins. We actually already met the three girls earlier at the Echo point of the valley who obliged to be interviewed by me for a project but didn’t expect to see them again.

Arriving at Latang Cave where the Sagada Underground River flows

Traverse back to the Road

The girls served as our unexpected guides (though Sagada local government discourage hiring kids as guides and recommends accredited guides). They were swift on their feet but occasionally stops to make sure they were on the right direction. The trail was a gradual descend on a narrow unpaved lush trail. We reached the first cave with a stream flowing through the cave. Old Sagada maps call this the Latang Cave where the Sagada Underground River flows. It was a small opening with huge boulders by the cave mouth that seemed to be neatly cut. I could tell no had entered the cave recently as the spiderwebs remain undisturbed. I also noticed some ferns thriving by the river which if I’m not mistaken are the edible ferns pako which goes to some of the salads here in Sagada.

We climbed the boulders, followed another stream leading to Matangkib Cave. It has a widely spaced cavern but was said to be already closed. I remember a decade back that this cave goes all the way to Bokong Waterfalls but was closed since water levels could rise unexpectedly which isn’t safe for visitors. The rest of the way was pretty straightforward. We’re climbing up the valley again and emerged through large rocks where a jeepney was parked. I’ve always thought where this rock fissure leads whenever I pass by Rock Valley Inn. We said good bye to the girls. We never saw a goat, I guess they didn’t find them. But we were thankful for guiding to the  Sagada Underground River and all the way back to the road.

Latang Cave opening

Going up the boulders

Stream flowing at Matangkib Cave

Matangkib Cave opening

The post Impromptu Sagada Underground River Detour from the Hanging Coffins appeared first on Ironwulf En Route Travel Blog Philippines and Beyond.

Sagada Cemetery in the afternoon light

Death and dying is an inevitable subject in conversations when All Saint’s Day and All Soul’s Day approaches. Like an evening conversation over a warm fire one cold and rainy night in Maligcong, from the talks of somewhat paranormal encounters in the rice fields we ended up talking about Igorot culture and the commonality of their beliefs within tribes in Cordilleras. It was interesting to talk to a native i-Maligcong and hear from them their traditions in wakes and still observed but slightly modified in the modern times for practicality. My thoughts immediately shifted to their neighboring town of Sagada only an hour away. The town has seen tremendous visits year long for its unique burial tradition of Hanging Coffins. Much so during All Saints day for its fiery spectacle during the Festival of Lights. But these popular display is just a small part of their traditions.

The Sagada Hanging Coffins is just a small part of their death and post burial traditions

Death is a part of Life

If there’s any place in the country that gives a lot of significance on death, it’s in the Cordillera highlands. In her book “Death and Beyond: Death and Burial Rituals and other Practices and Beliefs of the Igorots of Sagada, Mountain Province”, Sagada native and educator, Dinah Elma Piluden-Omengan, documented the complexities of Igorot rites of the small town Sagada in a rich 200-plus pages of her book. For the Sagada people there are respected rites depending of the kind of death – wether of a newborn, young adult, accident, murder, suicide and of old age.

For newborn deaths, burial immediately follows if the baby died in daylight. For night time deaths, relatives proceeds with the burial upon first light. Prayers for guidance in the afterlife and to leave the people left behind healthy would done by the elders. There’s a week of mourning for the parents before they return to work. Accidental deaths, murders and suicide is the painful kinds of deaths for the Igorots. The ritual of offering a dog which will seek revenge to those who have wronged them. For murders, the assistance of the sun, moon and the clouds to find the killer if have not yet been known.

Death by old age is celebrated. Igorots gives substance to family and it is important as much as possible that each member of the family is present during the wake of the departed. The community is even invited to the gathering. This I experienced when I was I visited Tulgao in Kalinga. We passed by a house where a wake was happening and we were invited to partake on a feat of rice and pork.

The Panag-apoy, a popular All Saint’s Day spectacle in Sagada

Christianity and Modernity

With the arrival of the American Anglical Missionaries early 1900s, Sagada suddenly have another belief infused with their pagan and animist traditions. Ask a native Sagada their name, most likely they would give either their Christian name or their native name. The presence of the Christian cemetery on a solemn hill gives a choice to Sagada natives on how they would like to be buried. Like Maligcong tribe who now shorten some of their post-burial practices for practicality (since pigs are expensive, chickens would do on some rituals), some Igorot tribes also infuse Christian practices for mourning periods. Like Rebecca Angapilan, a Bontoc-Kankanay from Bauko who wrote that in between butchering pigs for offering, their family would pray the rosary now and offer mass during the 9-days of mourning. It’s nice to see people of Cordillera still holding on to their traditions as its what makes them unique. In fact I hope they embrace the tradition as its who they are. Yes the modernity calls for practicality but at leat document, observe and bring importance to this traditions by keeping them alive one way or the other. Death may be constant but cultural traditions and beliefs like this can easily fade.

The St Mary Church, the Anglicans were the first to introduce Christian influence in Sagada in the early 1900s

Remembering the departed

Modernity infused with their traditional beliefs

Solemnity at night

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A pathway at Cedar Hill Cemetery

And I found myself running around, apparently lost in this 32-acre hilly terrain dotted with massive cedar trees located inside the Cedar Hill Cemetery in Suffolk, Virginia. I was supposed to accompany my aunt at the grocery in town but I found a map of the cemetery when we visited the nearby Riddick’s Folly House Museum. From the old train station, the famed public cemetery listed in USA’s National Register of Historic Places (NRHP) was just beyond the fence. I’m such a sucker for maps and finding places like solving a mystery case. I asked my aunt to squeeze in a little time before our chore and she gladly obliged. Even for a moment, I was excited to explore the grounds by Nansemond River where Suffolk community began.

The Watering Fountain

Suffolk was Born

It’s easy to dismiss Cedar Hill Cemetery as just another graveyard. A closer look at some of the elaborate Victorian-style grave markers, monuments and an background of Suffolk history would heighten appreciation on this hilly land south of Nansemond River. Looking back briefly, Suffolk history started when Jamestowne, a settlement co-established by English explorer Captain John Smith way back in 1608, north of the James River, was threatened with starvation. Through Captain John Martin, he explored Nansemond River down south following an oyster bed and decided to settle there but conflict with the Nansemond Indian tribe drove them away. The English colonizers in return ransacked their temples. Despite years of conflict, settlers and their community continued to grow and eventually the Indian tribe lost their lands and lives and those who survived left to join another western tribe by 1744.

The land south of James River surrounding Nansemond river was well suited for Tobacco plantation. One of the early settlers, John Constant built a warehouse on the riverfront in 1720 for Tobacco trade. Eventually, a community grew revolving around the warehouse and was called the “Constant’s Wharf”. In 1742, the House of Burgesses, the first legislative assembly of elected representatives in North America, approved a bill to establish the community as a town and named it as “Suffolk” for “Souther Folks”, same name of the hometown of current governor at that time, Sir William Gooch, in England.

Angel at the Obelisk

The Green Hills Cemetery

In 1802, two and a half acres of land farmed by John Constant and his family was purchased in order to build an Old Union Church also called the Old Meeting House. It was used for community worship and town meetings until 1820 then was moved to Pine Street. The original church cemetery was originally called Green Hills Cemetery.

Nurney Angel and Lamb

The Cedar Hills Cemetery

For a Filipino visiting Suffolk, Virginia, it was a challenge to relate to many of its so called heritage without knowing a little about their history. Cedar Hills Cemetery opened up my curiosity on how the city came to be. The cemetery have survived a major fire in Suffolk in 1837 and the War Between States. The cemetery has expanded to more 15,000 grave sites including the original unmarked ones from 1800s. The challenge now for Suffolk people is keeping the heritage alive from vandalism and natural calamities. There were notable personalities buried here from a USA Congressman, to top government officials in Virginia but the local personalities like teachers, a lion trainer, a woodmen add wonderful stories of the people that makes up the town. Fortunately the Nansemond River Garden Club, one of the organizations in helping preserve this heritage spent a lot of their resources to also beautify the grounds.

I only had a little time to inspect each and every significant spots cited from my map but those that I was able to find clearly displays meticulous craftsmanship. Different tombstones also have different stories and unique symbols engraved that has relevant meanings at that time. Like eye-catching Angel at the Obelisk which symbolizes rebirth, protection and resurection. The beautifully carved Darden Monument for the only son Archibald Allen who died at the young age of 20 have acanthus and lilies, thistle and foxglove decorating his tomb. Nearby is Lucy Allen’s tomb with passion flowers and another tomb shaped like a stump is a headstone for an infant, Janet Whitehead Prentis, covered with morning glory, lily of the valley and ferns.

Other significant sites that are easy to find are the unique zinc-made Confederate Monument, erected in 1889, honoring the fellow soldiers with Thomas Washington Smith during the War Between the States and The Watering Fountain, restored in 2007 by the Nansemond River Garden Club, was used to water plants and supply water to work animals. At restoration, a shallow pond was found at the fountain basin believed to be the source for collected rainwater. There are a lot more details to see in Cedar Hill Cemetery that I think it would take me more than half a day to examine every detail I could find or even take a proper photo of each of them. But I’m glad to have visited this solemn resting ground rich in history and culture.

Cedar Hill Cemetery

North Main Street & Constance Road
757.514.4136

The Confederate Monument

Lucy Allen tombstone adorned with passion flowers

The Darden Monument (rightmost) for the only sone, Archibald Allen, died at 20

The Brewer Godwin Mausoleum

The post Virginia | Cedar Hill Cemetery: Stroll Through 200 Years of Suffolk History appeared first on Ironwulf En Route Travel Blog Philippines and Beyond.

On the road up to Mt Samat

About 2–3 hours away, north of Manila, is the province of Bataan. A place commonly known for the historic Death March, where Filipino and American soldiers stood their ground in World War II and was eventually led by the Japanese to a torturous 130km march to Capas, Tarlac. The Memorial Cross at the Shrine of Valor is a towering reminder of the war and to honor these soldiers. Osprey Packs Philippines, recently led an adventurous bunch of explorers from traditional media and travel bloggers to discover Bataan,  the historic attractions and beyond. Each of us were equipped with our very own Osprey Packs for the tour. My Osprey Momentum 32, a 32 liter technical pack ideal for active traveler sporting a pocket-full design along with its two major compartments, a rain-cover tucked underneath the bag and an AirScape back panel making it easy and comfortable wearing the bag as we go out and about in Bataan. For me who was last here in 2011, it was a surprise to see the development happening in this province in the realm of tourism.

A good-looking tourist center in Bataan

Bataan Tourism Center

Tourism centers in the country are mostly modest offices, designed to just basically provide information to visitors. It was a pleasant surprise to see the Bataaan Tourism Center going to lengths to offer more services. With a wonderful display of World War II dioramas, an Art Exhibit section, a Souvenir and Pasalubong Shop showcasing local products along with the usual help desk, this tourism office is a destination in itself. Most of us agreed that this is one of the best tourism center we’ve seen in the country.

On the mangrove boardwalk at the Balanga Wetland and Nature Park

Balanga Wetland and Nature Park

In barangay Tortugas, Balanga, is the country’s first Wetland and Nature Park. A haven for bird watchers, Balanga Wetland and Nature Park also surprised us with its neat birdcage-like Information Center building, bird-watching viewing decks and wooden boardwalk through a mangrove to see more of our avian friends. Binoculars can be rented to zoom-in on the 35 species and 15 families of birds living in the wetlands, mudflats and mangrove forest.

Inside the UP house at Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar

Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar

With our Osprey Packs in our backs, we explored the cobblestone streets and visited ancestral houses in this open-air museum and heritage park, Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar in Bagac, Bataan. It was back in 2011 when I last visited this place for a photography lecture I conducted and I was impressed that the area is continually expanding, adding more heritage houses and landscaping in between its canals. It was an enjoyable trip back in time.

Going up to the Shrine of Valor

Mt Samat National Shrine

I’m a little ashamed to admit, I have been to the mountains of Tarak-Mariveles, hiked the trail to Quinawan point and observed the reeforestation at Anvaya Cove but I haven’t been to the summit of Mt Samat. That’s one reason I was excited with the trip with Osprey Packs Philippines. Our van throttled up the ascending road of Mt Samat as we marvelled at the surrounding views as the elevation got high. It was late in the afternoon, but the group managed to climb the 302-ft Shrine of Valor. I, however ran down trying to get a good angle of the cross and the sunset 550 meters above sea level. Sunset was fast but I’m glad to be able to see what’s left of it.

The fountain at the Balanga Plaza Mayor

Balanga Plaza Mayor

Balanga, the capital of Bataan was our home for the night. We were billeted at the elegant Plaza Hotel right smack in the middle of Plaza Mayor in Balanga. This was another surprise as this is one beautiful plaza with a wonderful fountain, surrounded by heritage government and commercial buildings and charming old church. The night is especially entertaining just watching people go by while the fountain dances through the night.

The control room at BNPP

Bataan Nuclear Power Plant

Sci-fi and post-apocalyptical fantasies come alive in our visit to the Bataan Nuclear Power Plant. A project of the Marcos regime but never utilized. While I’m not on the side of using nuclear energy, especially for a country within the ring of fire, a visit to this power plant is highly informative. The maze of tubes, the multitude buttons and seeing the fuel rods is like being in the live episode of megastructures of National Geographic. There’s a lot to learn and admire with BNPP.

Two of the rescued turtles at the center

Pawikan Conservation Area

Our last stop is quite meaningful in their endeavor. The Pawikan Conservation Area used to be a place for pawikan (sea turtle) poachers but now is a center for rescue and home to pawikans. These gentle sea creatures amazingly returns to their hatching ground after 25 years that’s why hatching turtles and letting them crawl at the beach to the sea is significant as they remember the scent, the environment and the conditions where they came from. Its saddening though that there’s only a small ratio of survivors from each hatch. There’s no turtle hatch when we came but a little downtime at the beach was a welcome end to our tour.

Downtime at the beach with my Osprey Momentum 32 backpack

The two-day tour is an eye-opener as Bataan seemed to be an underrated tourist destination only three hours from Manila. From the sea to the summit, we were able to enjoy some of what the province offers and there’s a lot more reason to go back to. Our Osprey Packs, especially my Momentum 32, made moving around much easier from site to site. Thank you Osprey Packs Philippines and Primer Group of Companies for this trip. Follow their Facebook page at /OspreyPacksPhilippines.

For more information on Bataan and the tourist site mentioned, contact Bataan Tourism Center at:

Address: Capitol Compound, Balanga City, Bataan 2100
Contact: (047) 237 4476
email: tourism_bataan@yahoo.com

With media friends and travel bloggers sporting their own Osprey Packs

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In a breathing reef

The soothing comfort of Hale Manna in Moalboal may tempt us to just lounge around its garden in solitude but Tañon Strait, just over the cliffs, is calling to explore its depths. We’re on our fourth day into our Oceana Photosafari in Tañon Strait and it’s the day we get to become water creatures by being on the ocean the whole day visiting the denizens below. I was excited for this part of the trip that I made sure to bring my own snorkelling gear set. Some of our companion would be diving which I’m sure they’ll get the front seat in seeing the underwater spectacle. Some of us though would just content ourselves to explore near the surface and free dive once in a while.

Pescador Island

Small fishing boats litter the waters surrounding the coral island of Pescador, our first stop for the day. The warm waters of Pescador Island is rich in marine life with over 2,500 species of fish in the area alone hence the many small fishing vessels around for their daily catch. Pescador Island is a marine park though, no destructive or massive fishing is allowed. It’s a favorite diving destination especially for the “Cathedral Cave” west of the island.

We went into the water to follow where the divers would go through. Visibility isn’t top notch but I did get to see plenty of small fishes upon first dive. Along with that are a number of jellyfish in the area which I usually cringe upon seeing. I had to brave it though and followed the others to the west side of the island where the water was a lot colder and less jellyfish in the area. There were some corals but its interesting to see the area where the ocean breaths. So much bubble coming from the soft bed of corals below. I heard the cathedral cave was somewhere below the area. There were moments the annoying jellyfishes would even rub into our faces and itch like hell but it never stopped us from snorkelling. Soon we saw our diver friends slowly ascending and we followed soon.

Our diver friends at Pescador Island

Talisay Reef Point

We moved closer to the shore at Basdiot for the Talisay Reef Point whose wall is also a favorite among divers. When I got into the water, I was astounded by the vastness of pristine coral garden in the area. Vibrant and very much alive. The depth is much deeper but I try to get closer. Again from above we followed the path our diver friends below, swimming close to the wall drop and just admiring the length of reef. I’m just so glad they were able to preserve this area.

Doing underwater photography at Talisay Point

Panagsama Beach Sardine Run

We had a brief lunch break at Club Serena and revelled at their deeply rich hot tsokolate after. A little downtime and we’re back into the water. This time we’re a lot nearer at Panagsama Beach. Local kids doing acrobatic dives into the water greeted us. I knew this was the site for the famous “Sardine Run” I’ve heard of but it never really prepared me for the visual overload first time seeing it underwater. It was like a great swarm yet fluid moving, glistening even under the afternoon light. The sardines move like a single ectoplasmic being. It was a marvellous and almost menacing to look at.

The “Sardine Run” is still a phenomenon waiting to be explained. It may be a mass reproductive migration but further studies are still being done. The abundance of this fish makes for an effortless fishing for the locals in this area. They need only to put down a line or hook and for sure they’ll get a catch. Large predator fishes await below for their chance to get a bite from any sardines that find themselves lost from the group. Pescador Island also have a Sardine Run but was briefly gone after a 2012 earthquake. So the behaviour of this fishes may change from time to time.

We finished our day with some snacks again from Club Serena and walked back to nearby Hale Manna. It was an awesome day of discovering the underwater world in this side of Tañon Strait. And seeing all of these wonders makes me want to protect this seascapes more.

Our divers treading the wall of Talisay Point

About Oceana Philippines

Oceana Philippines seeks to restore the health, richness, and abundance of the Philippine oceans. By working closely with civil society, academics, fishers, and government, Oceana Philippines will promote the use of sound science based policies to help ensure sustainable fisheries and vibrant marine ecosystems.

Follow Oceana Philippines on Facebook and Twitter.

Details of small fishes on a coral

The post Tañon Strait | Snorkelling in Moalboal appeared first on Ironwulf En Route Travel Blog Philippines and Beyond.

A local worker in Pililia overlooking the nearby wind turbines

It used to be that the towering wind turbines of Bangui in Ilocos Norte was the sole site where people can marvel at these slender sentinels watching over the sea. Now, in barangay Halayhayin in Pililia, Rizal, these megastructures were erected on the undulating hills sloping along the scenic Laguna Lake. With only a couple of hours away from Metro Manila, where the country’s leading demand for electricity is at its highest, not only would the Pililia Rizal Wind Farm be able to supply renewable energy in a close proximity, but people like me who marvels such machinery in a beautiful nature backdrop would be ecstatic not to travel more than 500 km just to see them.

The tourist center with infographic boards

Road to Rizal

The APEC break finds me and a couple of travel buddies of mine Oman and Allan, spontaneously driving south to Rizal escaping the mayhem of Edsa to visit the Pililia Rizal Wind Farm. I have read about this wind farm for a while from Kara and Allan before but haven’t got time to explore it. I think this was a good time as many of the access roads winding through the 27 wind turbines within the 4,515 hectares area of the wind farm are already open for exploration. Vehicles just need to be 10 meters away from these turbines when parking.

It was refreshing to drive down this route as I haven’t been in this parts for ages. Antipolo has developed well and the Manila East Road has some scenic overlooking spots of Laguna Lake. As we head close to the junction leading to either Jala-jala or Mabitac, we could already see the windmills from the distance. We took a left to an ascending road and eventually found one of the entry points to the Pililia Rizal Wind Farm.

Some horses at the Pililia Rizal Wind Farm hills

Pililia Rizal Wind Farm

One of the guards at the entrance point led us to an overlooking platform where a structure, still in the finishing touches, looks to be the information center. There are infographic boards there about Pililia and the wind farm. One interesting fact on why Pililia was chosen as the site for these wind turbines –  these hills have a natural wind corridor with a monthly average of 36kmh windspeed passing through the hill and heightens during Amihan (north-east winds) season from October to March. Each of these turbines generate 2 MW of electricity with the wind farm collectively generating about 54 MW electricity. In estimate, this Pililia Rizal Wind Farm is able to generate 150 Gigawatt hours (GWh) of electricity annualy. With Manila’s average household consumption of 200–300 kwh every month, the wind farm can power an estimate of 66,000 households continuously.

A group of tourist enjoying the view

Windmill Wonder

Aside from the benefits of this renewable energy, the installation of these wind turbines marked Pililia Rizal on the tourism map. Bangui in Ilocos Norte made a big name because of this and I won’t be surprised if the same thing happens here. It’s not by the beach but the hills and the view of the lake makes it a unique attraction. I found the hills ideal for bikes and even trail runs, I guess, with the many motorbiking groups and cyclers have the same idea as we encountered droves of them. We stayed there for the sunset and wasn’t disappointed with the afternoon light. Being close to Manila, I might find myself going back here once in a while to catch some fresh air while admiring the wind turbines of Pililia Rizal Wind Farm.

Admiring the wind turbines up close

How to Go There

Pililia Rizal is about 55km away from Metro Manila. Here’s a couple of ways to go there.

Private Vehicles

• Drive your way to Manila East Road passing by the towns of Taytay, Angono, Binangonan, Cardona, Morong, Baras and Tanay before Pililla.
• When you pass by Villa Lorenzo Resort on your left, you are near the fork on the road. The right leads to Jala-jala. Take the left road heading to Mabitac, Famy and Real. There’s also a Pililia Rizal Wind Farm sign that’s hard to miss.
• After the lookout point of Laguna Lake high up the road, the first entrance should be on your left.

Commuting to Sampaloc

• Make your way to Tanay Public Market in Sampaloc. There are FX and Vans plying the route from Starmall, Mandaluyong and Araneta Center, Cubao. Fare is around Php 70.
• From Tanay Public Market, hire a tricycle to take you to the Pililia Rizal Wind Farm. At the moment, tricycles charge Php 300 one-way per tryke exclusive of waiting time. It is best to negotiate a round-trip cost as there are no tricycles available to hire at the wind farm.

Look up at the turbines

A motorbike group taking posterity shots

Windmills aligned

Catching the setting sun against the windmills

Enjoying the dusk light at the hills

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The F1 Hotel Manila in the middle of the buildings

The name F1 may seem to be a brand speeding off the race tracks, but F1 Hotel Manila have nothing to do with formula one racing. Though, the hotel has the reputation of having preceded everyone in the hotel industry being the first that stood in the heart of Bonifacio Global City (BGC). Offering upscale accommodations suited for both business and leisure travelers in the midst of a sophisticated BGC community.

Hotel reception at the 5th floor

F1 Hotel Manila

BGC has been a favorite venue for a variety of running activities happening almost every day of the weekend. I for one was scheduled to join a run a week ago and it was fortunate that I was offered a great deal from Dealgrocer on their City Suite room. F1 Hotel Manila is situated at the 32nd street of BGC in between 5th and 7th street. Conveniently, just across S&R Membership Shopping and St Lukes Medical Center Global City, and a short walk to the Mind Museum and BGC High Street.

The F1 Hotel Manila have 243 rooms in three categories – Deluxe Room, City Suite and Fort Suite. I have reservations for the City Suite Room. For check-in, I had to go to the 5th floor for the reception area. I simply showed my voucher and ID to confirm my booking which I called-in a week before to check availability. I was asked for Php 3,000 for incidentals in which was returned after checkout. Their room key has a security feature as guest can only access floors they are roomed in. My only addition with their lifts would be to add indicator lights for the elevator doors seen from the lobby lifts.

The City Suite Room

The City Suite Room

I was billeted at room 1408, found at the left-end of a narrow corridor. The City Suite Room was generously spacious that it has its own living room and a low divider for the twin beds facing the window. Not much in terms of view from my window but the room has two large LCD TVs, one facing the bed and the other for the couch. There’s a work table by the wall near the bathroom. The room also has a large bathroom with walk-in shower.

I can imagine more than four people fitting in this room with still ample space to move around. Air conditioning keeps the room steady cool. I was also there mainly to work on some of my projects and I’m utterly pleased with their high speed internet connection. Enabling me to upload large image files to my cloud storage in a short time giving me more time to enjoy the hotel facilities.

The children’s pool and lounge pool

Leisure Activities

Since I was preparing for a 16km run the next morning, I decided to do an easy workout at their gym. It was small but clean with state-of-the-art equipment for weights and cardio exercises. From the gym, which is located at the 3rd floor mezzanine, I could see the three pools below on the open air third floor platform they call the Canary Lounge. There’s the kids pool, lounge pool and the sexy lap pool. There are also tables and chairs there to hangout and enjoy the city skyline views of BGC. It’s also at the third floor where the main restaurant, F All Day Dining, is located. Elegant fixture adorn the restaurant.

The F All Day Dining restaursant

Summary

So I had my 16km run the next day, leaving about 4:30am in the morning without a problem. I had a restful sleep. Quiet and deep under the thick blankets and comfortable on the bed cushions. It was that restfulness that helped me conquer the hilly terrain of BGC. When I got back at the hotel, I still had time for the breakfast buffet. They had good coffee, though service staff could be more attentive. Buffet choices had a good variety and most I had were quite tasty so it was more than satisfying to say the least. I also asked for a late checkout since I wanted to enjoy the room more which was fortunately available.

For a weekend staycation, I had a productive and relaxing time. The rooms are huge, the internet is blazing fast, the facilities are excellent, location is convenient at central BGC and the good value deal from DealGrocer made it all the more enticing to have a vacation within the city.

Trying out the cardio machines at the gym

The Canary Lounge

The living room area of the City Suite

My work desk at the City Suite Room with high speed internet LAN

City skyline view from the reception floor

The lap pool

Dusk at BGC

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Descending at the Torrey PInes State Reserve Beach trail with stunning rock formations

The day started with an amusing little chaos. It’s funny how logistics can quickly screw up at times. The plan was to spend time with relatives at La Jolla Cove not really Torrey Pines State Reserve. My sister and I took the AmTrak train from Vista to San Diego where our cousin picked us up at the Old Town Station to meet up with the rest of our cousins. A little misunderstanding went us driving around in circles at the upscale neighborhood of La Jolla. And when we finally got to meet heads with other relatives and laid our options did we get a clear direction where we’re going. Everyone agreed we’ll visit Torrey Pines State Reserve for the rest of the afternoon. I was excited as I’ve been yearning to do some trail hikes in San Diego since I came in the USA. That’s one of the things I like about in the country, the importance of parks and reserves and their accessibility in the city.

Hiking up Torrey PInes Road from the beach

The Torrey Pines State Reserve

The Torrey Pines State Reserve is a 2,000 acre coastal state park under the community of La Jolla, Southern California. From Torrey Pines Road, the bluff may seem like a featureless lump rising by the beach. But within this natural reserve is the Torrey Pine (Pinus torreyana), a rare species of pine tree found only here and also one of the Channel Islands in USA. This reserve was designated as a National Natural Landmark in 1977 as it is home to several wildlife and flora like bobcats, coyotes, cacti, coastal chaparral, racoons, rabbit and including the rare Torrey Pine.

PWD accesible trail at the Whitaker Garden

Torrey Pines Hike

Within the Torrey Pines State Reserve are more than 8 miles of hiking trails with varying levels of difficulty and scenery. At that time, I had no idea of the trails and let our cousin Buddy, who had been here before lead the way. We started at the Torrey Pines State Beach where we left some of our other cousins to enjoy the beach near the bridge. From the beach, we walked up to the park road leading to the High Point where a beautiful panorama of the reserve and pacific ocean can be seen. Nearby, benches are available, shaded naturally by pine trees. There’s also the Whitaker Garden, where even person with disabilities (PWDs) can enjoy this area as the trail is accessible by wheelchairs. There’s an amazing display of rare southern maritime chaparrals here. It is sad though that category 3 drought has clearly affected some of the vegetations at that time.

I was curious of the rusted colored rock platform people from a distance and asked my cousin if we could visit the area. The open trail here gets narrower and dusty but the trails are marked appropriately. So we reached the Red Butte, a prominent geological formation made of laterite soil full of iron oxide hence its red rusty color. It has a 360 degree vantage point of the reserve.

The trail forks to several points from the Red Butte, but since we’re heading to the beach we took the straight Beach Trail but the rock formations here as we descend further down the trail is absolutely fantastic. The work of art on the rock walls formed by natural erosion is impressive to look at. I could imagine this area in better light. The trail itself would be really nice to do a trail run as I can imagine. Shortly we could see the beach below and carefully navigated a set of stairs down. People are warned to venture near the cliffs as erosion may unexpectedly occur.

Rare maritime chaparral in the area

The Red Butte with people on top seen from a distance

Passing through a few Torrey Pines

On top of the Red Butte

Find myself enjoying the highest part of the reserve with a jump shot

On the wide open beach trail with some runners resting

More of the beach trail after the descent

Finally the view of the beach and the Flat Rock

The Torrey Pines State Beach and essential info on the next page…

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The Batanes Travel Guide Batan Island 2016 Edition

The Ironwulf En Route Travel Guides is your offline travel companion. I’m proud to announce the update to the comprehensive Batanes Travel Guide, the Batan Island 2016 edition. The new edition expands to 50 pages updating the latest info on Batan Island, updated map of the island and Basco town proper, latest transpo rates,  accommodation listings and more places to dine. Unlike the first edition, the new edition is a paid download as a lot of time and effort has gone into making this ebook from layout, illustrations, photography and copy. I hope you find it worth as a support for this site and share it to your friends for a discounted price. For more details on what’s inside visit the dedicated page for the Batanes Travel Guide | Batan Island 2016 edition.

Buy now

Updated maps and hotel listings for the Batan Island 2016 edition

Additional content and updated photos

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Sunrise at Mantalip Reef station at Bindoy, Negros Oriental

It was hard to get used to the comforts of Hale Manna and explore more the beauty of the underwater world of Moalboal as in day 5 of our Oceana Philippines Photo Safari, we were on the move again. Off the coast the large white liveaboard outrigger vessel from Harold’s Dive Center in Dumaguete awaits to ferry us from Cebu, across Tañon Strait to Mantalip Reef in Bindoy, Negros Oriental. It was an impressive boat, spacious with lots of sitting and lounging areas, a well-kept mess area, restroom, and solar charging area. Ocean travel always had that soothing comfort, embraced by the breeze with boundless possibilities seen across the horizon.

A mangrove pavillion at Bindoy

Sail to Bindoy Negros Oriental

The sea travel took only an hour and a half to reach the guard house/ ranger station of Mantalip Reef but we had to skip by it for a moment to head to the mainland of Bindoy. On a smaller speedboat and a rubber raft, our group sailed on. We docked in a beautiful mangrove enclave where a distinct wooden pavilion stands at this coast. A lot of locals sought shelter under the natural shade while enjoying the cool clear waters below. Kids climb the sinewy branches of the mangroves for a joyous splash.

Our host from Bindoy prepared a gracious lunch which includes a serving of a lechon (suckling pig) Along with salads, grilled fish, tasty kakanin (rice cakes), and delicious locally baked cake. It also gave us an opportunity to meet and converse with Mayor Yap of Bindoy about their environmental programs in the region. Bindoy is an ideal example of a protected mountain to reef ecosystem. Aside from avoiding mining on the mountains to avoid siltation, the local government made sure to keep the periphery free from large-scale fishing allowing the fishes to flourish within their natural habitat under the mangroves.

Snorkeling Mantalip Reef

I was excited to go back to the ranger station to snorkel and see what the underwater world here is like. Some of our diver friends got ready and us snorkelers boarded a smaller boat to explore the reefs a bit further from the station. The water was deeper but definitely still clear and it felt like we swam a few hundred meters but the corals were just too deep for us to appreciate.

Our friend from Oceana, Yas, suggested we go back to the station and just snorkel around it. It was a great idea as there was a dazzling array of corals and kaleidoscope of small fishes there. A large congregation of black spotted snappers and bright blue starfishes were quite evident among the variety of corals. The tide was getting low that afternoon so no huge fishes can be found as they move through deeper waters but I’m quite satisfied with what I saw here.

Arriving at the Mantalip Reef Station

Beautiful array of corals

Night at the station on the next page…

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A playful dolphin jumps out to greet us in Bais Negros Oriental

A cup of coffee taste so great while at sea. Our breakfast of bread with peanut butter, saba bananas and a unique concoction of crushed cereal with honey made by Harold himself of Harold’s Dive Center was enough to energize our morning. It’s the last full day of our Oceana Philippines Photo Safari and time simply flew by fast here while at Tañon Strait. From Mantalip Reef in Bindoy we were headed to our last stop in Dumaguete but not before we do some Bais Dolphin Watching and a visit to the largest remaining mangrove forest in Negros Oriental, the Talabong Mangrove Park and Bird Sanctuary.

Bais Dolphin Watching

I was comfortably propped on the portside of the boat listening to some tunes when I heard a commotion on the topside. “Have you seen a manta ray mating?” I heard from Danny, one of the enthusiastic staff of Oceana PH who came from a Greenpeace background hence his strong-willed personality and dedication to his work. People were excited to see a manta ray jump out of the sea and seem to be involved in some coital activity. I did not catch the jump but only saw a few dark flapping fins passing fast into the distance.

I never did try to go back for some snooze as we were already in Bais City, a city 45km away from Dumaguete and known as the largest producer of raw sugar in Negros Oriental. The name “ba-is” interestingly came from a native species of brackish-water eel. It was just early on in this decade that Bais Dolphin Watching grew in popularity. The regular sight of dolphins and occasional whales made the city decide to mark it as a tourist attraction and it certainly didn’t disappoint. There was a high probability of dolphin sighting and we can attest to that.

From afar we could already see pods of dolphins. Our boat carefully navigated on its side to follow their direction as we spectators shifted from side to side enamored by these graceful and fun creatures swimming and sometimes jumping on the sides of our boat. At one time, I decided not to shoot and simply enjoyed watching these playful creatures. There were a mix of spotted dolphins, spinners and bottle nose. These dolphin encounters happened several times but on occasions, cut short by other boats not really trained for dolphin watching. It was annoying to see other boats trying to cut through the dolphin’s path just to get close (and their tourist passengers could take a selfie).

More jumping dolphins

Another jumper from the distance

Quick side-trip at the Manjuyod Sandbar

Talabong Mangrove Park and Bird Sanctuary on the next page…

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Warm Christmas!

“I hope that in this year to come, you make mistakes. Because if you are making mistakes, then you are making new things, trying new things, learning, living, pushing yourself, changing yourself, changing your world. You’re doing things you’ve never done before, and more importantly, you’re Doing Something.” ~ Neil Gaiman

Taking this opportunity to wish everyone Happy Holidays for this 2015! Ironwulf En Route will also be on a holiday until early next year, 2016. May you use this long holiday as an opportunity to enjoy time with your friends or family. Get out! Enjoy nature! Travel! With this, greeting everyone a Merry Christmas and a prosperous New Year ahead! Thank you for being part of my 2015!

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Expedition map of Tañon Strait photo safari

Sometimes it takes someone else’s eyes to see the beauty that surrounds us. Familiarity can be numbing at times and comfort can make us overlook what’s in front of us. That can be said the same to some people living along the area of Tañon Strait, the largest protected seascape in the country sandwiched between two major islands, Cebu and Negros. Ask where the strait is to a few, they would show a blank face, not knowing that the sea in front of them is part of it. Oceana Philippines, organized a photo safari to explore the length of Tañon Strait and I was fortunate to be part of this 6-day expedition. It was an exciting project as everything was new to me. Our objective was to capture and showcase the beauty and bounty of Tañon Strait. Maybe, just maybe, through our photographer eyes we could share and let more people appreciate this natural wonder.

The Expedition

The narrow Tañon Strait Protected Seascape runs from the northern tip of Cebu down to the southern portion of Dumaguete. It extends 160km long with a total area of 5,182 square kilometers. Our expedition goes through its length starting in Cebu City up to Bantayan Island working our way down south Cebu, crossing the Strait to Negros and sailing down to Dumaguete. Here’s the breakdown of our journey.

• Day 1: In transit Cebu City to Bantayan Island. Our first full day finds us assembling in Cebu City with other members of the group. Photographers from Cebu, Ferdinand Edralin and Tonee Despojo, Tañon Strait social media manager Edwin, and Oceana Philippine’s Candeze Mongaya. Also coming from Manila is photographer Oggie Ramos, author, Criselda Yabes, Oceana’s Communication Manager, Yasmin Arquiza. Riding north, we headed to Hagnaya Port to catch a ferry for Bantayan Island. We arrived at Anika Island Resort and captured the late afternoon scene by the beach and watch the full moon rise.
• Day 2: Virgina Island and Madridejos. Waking up early to capture the morning scene. Mid-day, we went to Virgin Island with beautiful white sand beach and clear waters. Afternoon to evening, we explored Madridejos, its market and old boardwalk with a light house. Fantastic sunset overlooking the coast.
• Day 3: Transit to Moalboal. A long road down south to Moalboal. On the way, we stopped by Aloguinsan for its wonderful mangrove cruise along Bojo River. By early evening, we reached Moalboal where we stayed at Hale Manna.
• Day 4: Moalboal Snorkeling. We had a full day of being in the water and it seems it wasn’t enough. I’m sure our diver friends would agree. Starting our awesome snorkeling at the jellyfish-filled waters of Pescador Island, we then went to the expansive and impressive reefs of Talisay Point ending the afternoon chasing sardines run at Panagsama beach.
• Day 5: Sail to Bindoy: We were excited to see the big white liveaboard boat from Harold’s Dive Center waiting for us that morning. Here, Oceana Philippines Danny Ocampo, also an underwater photographer, joined us. We’re crossing Tañon Strait for Bindoy Negros Oriental. We had lunch with mayor amidst a mangrove forest then later went to the Mantalip Reef Station for more snorkeling. Spending a night at the reef station.
• Day 6: Chasing Dolphins at Bais. From Bindoy we sailed down to Bais enjoying the mid-morning sun while watching out for pods of dolphins. After a side-trip to Talabong Mangroves of Bais, we ended our journey in Dumaguete.

The first exhibit in Manila at Eastwood libis

Highlights

The six full days of expedition was nothing short of spectacular. Each place has its own unique character. From the stunning beaches of Bantayan, the culture and nature rich Aloguinsan, the mesmerizing depths of Moalboal, the eco-tourism development of Bindoy, and the exciting dolphin encounters of Bais. From above and below sea level, there’s a lot to love about Tañon Strait. My only regret from this trip is not having brought proper equipment for shooting underwater. I know I was tasked to shoot more of the landscape, people and culture but I felt I could have captured more underwater too. Still I enjoyed every bit of the experience.

Throughout the months succeeding the Tañon Strait photo safari, the a few selected photos has been exhibited in several areas in Visayas and Manila. The Treasures of Tañon Strait Exhibit hopes to spread awareness of the protected seascape through visually capturing on-lookers and passersby at the high traffic venues. And recently, the Images of Tañon Strait coffee table book has been released as an additional tool to help Oceana Philippines spread its cause.

Images of Tañon Strait coffee table book released

About Oceana Philippines

Oceana Philippines seeks to restore the health, richness, and abundance of the Philippine oceans. By working closely with civil society, academics, fishers, and government, Oceana Philippines will promote the use of sound science based policies to help ensure sustainable fisheries and vibrant marine ecosystems.

Follow Oceana Philippines on Facebook and Twitter.

The post Tañon Strait | Oceana Philippines Photo Safari Chronicles appeared first on Ironwulf En Route Travel Blog Philippines and Beyond.

On the shores of the mystical Lamanoc Island

A vast field of mangroves filled more than half my vision as I start my way down a two story rocky stairway. Somewhere beyond this 1,400 hectares of mangrove at Cogtong Bay, Anda, Bohol is Lamanoc Island, a small limestone island enveloped in an eerie veil of tales of a banished witch and a place where shamans congregate. Why would I visit such a spooky island? Because within its shallow caverns and lush tangled vegetation are remnants of a fascinating culture dating far beyond the pre-colonial era.

The mangrove boardwalk leading to the jetty

From Mangroves to the Island

The 310-meter boardwalk cutting through the mangrove forest looks fragile and creaks on with every step but remains sturdy as I walked along with my young guide. It helps to slow down and admire the 33 species of mangrove that are said to be in this area alone. At the end of the boardwalk, there’s a bamboo and wood jetty where paddleboats await to take visitors to Lamanoc Island. The ride is a short 10 minutes paddle on shallow water. At low tide, visitors can even opt to wade and just walk towards the island.

Approaching Lamanoc Island

Ancient Dwellings

Lamanoc Island is surrounded by rocky shores and mangroves. As soon as I step on the island, there’s a different feeling in the air, a thickness I can’t describe that’s pressing against my skin making it tingly all over. I shrugged it off as our main guide, Mang Fortunato, a man in his 60s who has been touring visitors here called my attention to start the tour. It was getting late in the afternoon and I was the last lone guest that day.

Fortunato led me up on a trail to the side of a limestone wall leading to a rock shelter with an open view of the sea. Before I got lost on the scenery, he pointed me to a few boat coffins on one side of the cave. The wooden dugout boat coffins made from tugos (molave) are called lungon. This burial method, widely practiced from the 8th to 15th century in Southeast Asia, is evident in Lamanoc Island with remnants of human skeletal remains and a few pieces of lungon in the rock shelter.

“One of my clairvoyant guests saw a dwarf sitting there” Fortunato told me while pointing to a rock ledge near the trail. I didn’t see any creature but broken potsherds littering the area which were evidence of earthenware jars also used for burials. Many of the burial jars here were damaged by looters who found human remains instead of treasures they were seeking. The National Museum conducted archaeological digs in the area and were able to find some good pieces and items like ceramics, beads, bracelets and iron blades that were believed to adorn the deceased in the belief that they would take them to the next life. Now the scattered human bones are respectfully gathered in a makeshift stone container encased by a clear glass.

We backtracked and went to a different trail leading to another rock shelter. A large wooden cross stands on this cave which I remember seeing earlier as we approached the boat. But the highlight of this cave is the crimson smeared walls on what study reveals to be hematite (red iron oxide) paintings. These ancient drawings are believed to belong to the Stone Age. Wear and tear, however, have made most of the paintings almost indistinguishable.

Mang Fortunato guides me through the island

The burial cave

Human bones gathered into a makeshift container

Remains of boat coffins

An old cross erected in the shallow caves

Old hematite paintings

Mysterious caves and essential info on the next page…

The post Bohol | Anda’s Mystical Lamanoc Island appeared first on Ironwulf En Route Travel Blog Philippines and Beyond.

Entering Banacon Island mangrove

“We can’t find our boat!” paddling master, Buzzy Budlong, tells me after several attempts of trying to spot our convoy outrigger boat through the maze-like passageways of Banacon Island, north of Bohol. Buzzy was at the back of our double kayak as I was the one in charge to shoot. We wait for the others south of the largest man-made mangrove island in Asia. He switched places with my assigned-writer friend, Oggie, back to his favorite yellow stand-up paddle (SUP) board, Mango Float. His sight looked far to the mainland. “Let’s head to that lighthouse!” he pointed. “Is he kidding?!” I thought. That’s almost 10km away by sea and we’re passing through two sea channels and an island. But he paddled on. He’s crazy like that which also partly makes him great.

Buzzy leads our group in this mangrove tour

Buzzy Budlong

We were looking for a different kind of adventure in Cebu and Bohol. And here comes Buzzy Budlong, a passionate paddler, whether on a kayak, SUP or a canoe. Water is his element and he moves fluidly on it. I watch him stand-up paddle his way to shore and marvel at the ease of his paddling and form. Earlier I saw him effortlessly do a bound-headstand on his Mango Float while paddling through calm waters within the mangrove forest passages. It is unquestionable that he has the skill. He even paddled from Saranngani Mindanao to Pagudpud, Ilocos Norte for 88 days back in 2009, guiding (and pushing) his Singaporean counterpart, Koo Swee Khoo in an epic paddling expedition. And in this trip, we look into his recommendations for paddling adventures.

Up to 15-feet high bakauan mangroves

Banacon Island Mangrove Forest

A 425 hectare mangrove forest north of Bohol under the municipality of Getafe (also called Jetafe) was our first destination. This man-made island has a good concentratin of “bakauan” (Rhizophora Stylosa) a common specie of mangroves in Bohol living along tidal flats. To get here, we rode a large outrigger from Mactan, Cebu. Keeping us company are, environmental researcher, Maria, line-fishing enthusiast Vincent and the ever reliable boat crew.

We prepared our kayaks and paddle boards off the island and started our way through the mangrove passages. As we get closer, the aquamarine water gets incredibly clear. Banacon Island mangrove forest is a community initiative which has started since 1957. Fifteen hectare of the land is occuppied by about 200 families relying on the rich marine life living within the ecosystem such as shrimps, shells, mollusk and other crustacians. We made our way through narrow passages and also shallow estuaries. We saw the bridge where a community resides. One problem the mangrove forest faced was the misuse of its resources. Some locals, resort to cut the mangrove trees to use it as firewood. To protect the island, it was turned into an eco-tourism destination.

Banacon Island is the largest mangrove plantation in the country

A kid from a local community watches us as we pass by

Getafe and essential info on the next page…

The post Bohol | Paddling through Banacon Island Mangrove Sanctuary appeared first on Ironwulf En Route Travel Blog Philippines and Beyond.